Thanks both, unfortunately the forum didn't throw up these posts when I searched. More to this than I realized. I have specced the Protech dampers with the same length and stroke as the Koni's, I'll let you know how it goes.......
Unfortunately selecting new rear dampers for a trad is not necessarily straight forward..There is so little suspension movement to start with and each car will have build differences, even from side to side. Also the attachment points have moved over time so very unlikely that one size could ever fit all.
Please note again that the dampers/shocks being made for David Rutherford and now Tim Aylers of New Elms and their distributors from either the pre-bankruptcy AVO and now the new manufacturers (same people)were always bespoke.[for these fellas] Though AVO sold other shocks directly and to other people indicating they were for Morgans, they were not (shiver) ANYTHING like what they supplied to Rutherford/Aylers. Other "Morgan" Such AVOs were not recommended. This new supplier to Tim is continuing that agreement and supplying RUTHERFORD designed shocks. They cannot be judged by other fare the company might make or sell. [/b]
I find what is important in a shock (better called a damper or dampener) is
1. Its overall size, extension and compression.
2. Its dampening rate, (Rutherford matched to the lowest KONI setting, that was recommended and enjoyed by trad Morgans for years.
3. Whether they have a tweaking feature one can use to refine them on installation but don't fool yourself to believe that it is much good after a short time. I see gentlemen racers change their setting on the weekend thinking that firmer setting is faster. But the truth is bouncing in the air down a circuit with a stiff suspension is not as effective as keeping your tyres on the ground with a compliant one. (wryly)
4. Whether the dampers have an internally bump stop.
5. Whether they come (at the rear) in the 2-3 types of trad variants MMC used shocks on.
Morgan COMFORT & HANDLING are dictated by the dampening rate and the amount of travel. The lesser the travel, the less both will be. (duh!) However, as leaf springs sag, their dampening rates doesn't change, but the arc they hold the car up with collapses (sags). This places the car closer to bottoming out. Creating adjustable bump stops makes that the loss of effective travel even worse as they must stop the car at a point before the bottoming..ergo even less of the little precious travel than they had when they addressed the problem of bottoming out.
On new trads, I found maximum travel to be 1.25" and 6.125 at the rear. 1" and 5.5" respectively is acceptable. After that, the springs, front or rear, must be changed, much more often at the rear unless the front is suffering from insufficient maintenance. Old Morgan springs used to last 10-15 years.
My newer ones (2002) are still good on a very pampered Morgan. However, I went through 3 MMC sets in 2 years on another Plus 8 I kept in the UK ..one set lasted 2 months! MMC rear leaf springs have been very spotty since and stiffening your leaf springs in hope of having them last longer is a painful result. When the time comes for my remaining car, I will not buy from he MMC or the Morgan aftermarket. There are plenty of leaf spring makers on every highway in NA. They will take mine, test them for dampening rate, and then make the same in the
best quality steel, which has been the cause of MMC's now perennial problem with their leaf springs.
Once again, the major elements are travel, spring rates and dampening rates. AFAIK, aside from David Rutherford, no one ever addressed these things specifically for Morgan trads until last year when Beady did.
gmg