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Joined: Jul 2022
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Got the front suspension back together. I discovered a cracked thrust pad last week and decided to go ahead and replace both sides. Given that I haven't had the front end apart since owning the car for these last two years, and given the shoddy workmanship I have found elsewhere, I though it would be prudent to give it a going over. Turned out that whoever did the Supplex (now SSL) suspension installation, left out the ride height adjustment spacers, so I had my local machine shop get out a pair for me. Happy to find that the kingpins look good and the fit in the hub bushings is fine. I'll make an appointment at the alignment shop tomorrow.

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Racking my brains to imagine what the "thrust pad" is on front suspension even with SSL kit confused2


Richard

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Friction blades Ie. steering damper blades. Are they still fitted alongside the SSL kit?....... Should be replaced with bearings and the blades removed if it really is SSL.

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted by sewin
Friction blades Ie. steering damper blades. Are they still fitted alongside the SSL kit?....... Should be replaced with bearings and the blades removed if it really is SSL.

Depends on the castor angle. Later cars with shallower castor and steering racks don't need the blades, especially if they have wider tyres (185 and up). Early cars with steering boxes and steep castor angles may be able to dispense with them, but may still suffer from St Malvern's Dance if they do. My 1986 car with 165s definitely benefits from keeping the blades.


Tim H.
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Originally Posted by sewin
Friction blades Ie. steering damper blades. Are they still fitted alongside the SSL kit?....... Should be replaced with bearings and the blades removed if it really is SSL.

It's a Supplex suspension, pre SSL but essentially the same design. The car is a '64 and, with the 4° castor angle, it is recommended to keep the damper blades. The thrust bearings at the bottom of the main springs are on top of the thrust pads.

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted by 1854sailor
The car is a '64 and, with the 4° castor angle, it is recommended to keep the damper blades.

Yep, the change to 6 degrees made a heck of a change to stability, albeit with a corresponding loss of turn agility.


Tim H.
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Weather cleared up and I was able at last able to go for a spirited run. There's a vast improvement with the spacers correctly installed and the main springs adjusted correctly. No more clunks going over tar strips and turn-in is way more predictable.

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Cleaned it !


David
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Re-Coloured and Re-Proofed the Hood. It's forecast to rain this afternoon, might test it.


Mark
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Over the winter I had the engine rebuilt. .020" over, and a Kent 224 cam installed. (73 4/4, crossflow). It's been great fun and much more exciting to drive, but it had a hesitation when you hit the accelerator like the accelerator pump wasn't quite doing its job.

I rebuilt the carb about a month ago, but only just got to the point where I could try it out (Rhine River cruise, COVID, and a week in Maine). I finally got it out last night.

WOW, does she fly! But I have a question:

I have a 32/36 DGV Weber, the stock carburetor. As I accelerate through the lower RPMs, I have to ease off on the gas pedal or it feels like it's choked. Over 4000 RPM I can have my foot to the floor, and she roars. Is that just how it is with this set up? I have checked the float setting and it is correct. And the jetting has never been changed. I did experience this before the carb and engine rebuild.


Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
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