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SORN
by OldSkrote - 31/07/25 02:07 PM
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New
by Rex_tulips - 30/07/25 07:59 PM
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Forums34
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Most Online1,046 Aug 24th, 2023
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Joined: Feb 2016
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Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Feb 2016
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I see that MMC have a lot more to learn about acoustics 
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Hi John, thank you for posting the photos, I will place these in my files, its all good useful info. I think they are the later Plus Fours?, very similar to our Plus Six though.
Ref the gear selector, I am replacing the complete assembly, I have never liked the modern BMW auto selector, just did not go with the car, but I understand that Morgan had to use the BMW unit. I will be taking photos this week of my adventures changing the selector and any issues etc.
The following is a quick explanation of how to get the wood console out.. I hope it makes some sense.. If you need any info PM me and we can arrange a phone chat..
Ref the centre console removal, is your car an auto box or manual?, I am not sure if there are many differences between the two ref removal of the centre upper wood console, but there might be as its a Morgan.. The removal of the upper wood section is a little bit of a faff, but can be done, but must be done carefully.
The wood section is secured at its upper front by two allan head trim screws that also secures the top of the black side leg vents ( that also house the heated seat switchs), you just need to remove the upper screw one each side. The screws go through the black side vent, then through the side alloy ( either carpet or leather trimed ) and then screw into an alloy section secured on the top front of the wood trim ( you can not see this section until the wood console is removed ).
Next remove the four allan headed screws that secure the alloy finisher around the gear selector. The fore and aft screws go through the console wood and screw into captive nuts in the under alloy, the side screws secure into captive nuts in the wood console.
Next remove the four allan headed screws that secure the alloy handbrake trim in place, as per the gear selector, the fore and aft screws secure the wood console in place to the lower alloy with captive nuts and are longer, the two side screws just hold the alloy finisher to the wood with captive nuts.. Next rollup the leather gaiter over the handbrake, its held in place by a tie wrap that secures the leather to the hand brake leaver, cut the tie wrap, noting the position it is fastened on the hand brake lever. Then slide the leather and the alloy trim off the hand brake lever..
Ok, next part, and you need to do this to get the wood off. Jack the car up and remove the hand brake cable from each of the rear brake calipers. I found that by applying the hand brake hard, then go back under the car and insert a piece of soft brass made to fit the gap to go between the actuating arm and its lower stop on each caliper, you can then simply release the handbrake inside the car and then go back under the car and lift off each side of the handbrake cable, the brass stays in place and keeps each side hand brake applied on the caliper.
Ok, so once the brake cable is free at each of the brake caliper, go back inside the car and undo the two bolts that hold the hand brake lever to the lower alloy body.. you will see that the hand brake cable goes around a pulley on the rear of the handbrake lever, so the cable will not fall off.. be careful with the electrical hand brake switch located on the side of the handbrake, its a bit exposed. Go back to the front of the centre console upper section and tape on some card above the wood onto the alloy dash finisher, this will help prevent scratching the wood when you pull the wood clear.
Now the faffy bit.. you have to gently pull the wood console back from the front toward the rear about 6 cm, this allows the front upper section to clear the upper screw points, it also frees the air vents from the heater box.. the vents are glued onto the wood console, so they do not easily come off and they stay on the wood console.. Now tilt the rear of the wood section and slowly tilt and remove the hand brake lever from the slot in the wood console.. You will see at this point why the cable had to be disconnected to allow the hand brake lever to move and clear the wood section. Do this slowly and most likely the handbrake lever will need to be elevated at first then tilted sideways to clear the wood, the loose handbrake cable will allow you to do this. Then gently lay the handbrake lever down and again be careful of the handbrakes switch as its a bit exposed.
Once the handbrake is clear and gently laying underneath the wood console, you need to go just forward of the gear selector and unplug the Sport + button wiring.. Remove the white connector leaving the small circuit board and the switch on the wood console. You will need to disconnect the battery first on its earth terminal before disconnecting.
Lastly, to finally remove the wood console you need to elevate the rear of the wood, while engaging the gear selector into its rear drive position and hold the selector as far to the rear as you can, this will just allow you to further elevate the rear of the wood console and clear the gear selector, it can then be taken out.. At this point I do not know what the differences are between an auto or a manual shift, but I suspect by placing a manual shift lever as far to the rear ( in gear ) will allow the wood console to come off.
It all sounds a bit of a bother, but actually doing it step by step its quite ok, its handy to have another pair of hands at times and plenty of cloth sections to stuff into areas and prevent any scratching.. I did all the above on my own, just did it a step at a time between cups of tea.
Hope this helps and makes sense..
Lastly, as Morgan do not want to help owners with parts and schematics, I wonder if there should be a section in this forum that shows any disassembly info and pictures of each part of CX cars.. just an idea..
dave
Last edited by Davetherave; 09/11/24 03:24 PM.
Dave Plus Six "Squeak" Roadster departed. 1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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OP
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I hope I never have to do that but you never know. I agree a sticky thread(s) with build / disasse mbly photos would be very helpful.
My car is MY22 & manual
JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
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I hope I never have to do that but you never know. I agree a sticky thread(s) with build / disasse mbly photos would be very helpful.
My car is MY22 & manual I will ask the forum admin when I post the gear selector story if we can have a sub section or sticky area for build/disassembly post photos/ explanations. I just dont see us getting any helpful CX info from the MMC, unless the new CEO reads this and changes things.. Rgr on yr MY and box, I should have remembered its a manual.. I think the construction of the CX cars are broadly similar.. I think by looking at a Plus Six or Plus Four photo and/or explanation it would help those that are able and want to work on their cars..
Dave Plus Six "Squeak" Roadster departed. 1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
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Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
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Great thread and many thanks to John and Dave. I'm really looking forward to the conversion report on the gear selector. Does the dashboard also have to be removed to attach the new neutral button? I would be very interested in the process. I think the idea with the picture collection is great. 👍
Clemens
PlusFour Red Baron MY 2022
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Hello Clemens.. to answer your question ref dash removal. No I do not think the dash has to be removed. As you are aware the modified gear selectors Park switch button goes under the dash, located in line with the starter button, to do this I have already removed the passenger side section alloy under tray plate that goes under the dash and has the volume knob and aux power located on it ( on a 2020 Plus Six ) . There is a screw in the remaining undertray plate section that is located near the steering column.. If you remove that screw there is enough flex in the plate to drop it slightly and see behind.. I have made measurements and the new switch needs to go into the undertray plate approx 20mm from its outer dash side edge, that allows the new switch to fit between the main dash PCB boards with some room.. The trick is to make sure the battery is disconnected before doing anything, mark out the alloy undertray for the drill position, place some dry 13mm thick board on the inside to protect the dash electronics and then from the underside cut a 22mm hole ( the switch section that is attached to the plate is circular and the part that goes through the plate is 22mm ) using a purpose made hole cutter slowly through the alloy plate, its only about 2mm thick, so it has to be done slowly and carefully.. The supplied park switch did not come with any securing fixing, but I have worked out a method to hold it in place. Once the switch hole is cut and made tidy, thread the new switch wiring and switch up from under the plate, threading the new wiring toward the front engine end of the plate ( which has an anti rub strip on its end fitted by the factory ).. Then secure the switch and re attach the passenger side under tray section. Both the new switch and the supplied electronics holder has long lengths of wiring to allow the units to be plugged together and safely secured alongside the main wiring loom. I am about 2/3rds along the above process, so I will post the full story when its all sorted... I think I might have to copy some of this again rather than re writing .. I seem to have ambushed Johns thread on fitting his sound system, so I had better say no more until its all finished..
Last edited by Davetherave; 09/11/24 06:01 PM.
Dave Plus Six "Squeak" Roadster departed. 1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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