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Joined: May 2009
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L - Learner Plates On
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S
Joined: May 2009
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I might be wrong but it may be you are actually compensating for a different fault. The path taken, chasing the distance between the key & the sensor doesn't explain why it was working - then it wasnt. & now its iffy, If the distance was so crucial you would have experianced issues since day one.

These things( Key sensoring immobilisers) do have issues when the battery voltage is low. so i would start by checking the voltage at the battery , then the voltage at the sensor down stream of the soldered connection (Possible dry soldered joint).Im not familiar with your cars wiring , however if the voltage is ok , the next step would be to check the impedance to the Immobiliser Module.& so on through the circuit .

It may be there is a high resistance in the circuit which isnt apparent during the dry balmy days of summer - but come winter the.? This is exactly why people suddenly get battery issues in the winter .


1999 Morgan Plus 8. 3.9 ....
1961 Alvis TD21 Series1 3 Litre Auto....
1 member likes this: RichardV6
Joined: Nov 2014
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
F
Joined: Nov 2014
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Hello from Hamburg,
with big interest I read your posts ref. immobilizer issue`s. We had the same problems on many cars.
Mainly on those new Plus 4 GDI models. We made lots of attempts to find out and I think we could sort out those disarming problems on nearly
all customers cars with that problem. I can confirm that the battery voltage is one of the points which do cause those disarming problems.
The more the voltage goes down, the more the problem can appear.
Yes, we have been busy with the reluctor ring on the ignition lock as well and did move it as far as possible towards the ignition key.
In addition we did check all earthing points as well. All this couldn`t fully cure the problems.
So we took a look to the ignition key itself. The newer immobilizer shows a red insert on the ignition keys.
There is a very small hole on the downside on the key, on that side you put it into the ignition lock. When you take a very small pin or bigger needle you can push that insert out of the key.
The small glass transponder sits in the read insert. Unfortunately the insert does not offer to place the transponder as much as possible towards the reluctor ring.
So we modify the insert itself, I cut away the big end of the insert which shows to the reluctor ring. In addition I carefully drilled the hole for the insert a bit deeper.
Those modifications do move the transponder inside the key around 5mm closer to the reluctor ring.
After this modification we had no more starting issue`s on those cars.
I haven`t got such a key in at the moment, for to show you via some pictures how we did do all that.
So after all you did try to solve that problem, maybe it`s worth to give it a try..

Regards Frank from Morgan Park

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Has a lot to Say!
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Frank, I think this will make a lot of people with a GDi variant very happy indeed!

Now, do you have a solution for the inlet side of the GDi engine's gumming up because of the direct fuel injection system. This Valhalla solution would send an awful lot of Moganeer's clamoring for a 2012-2019 plus 4 M/Y car!

Martin.

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Just Getting Started
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Hello Martin,
unfortunately we have no solution for the problem you mentioned.
We know about that, but up to now we had no car with such problems.
One day we had in a GDI Plus 4 with running problems on the fourth cylinder, but we couldn`t
really find a fault or defective part. So we did clean everything, even the inlets and injectors. They were contaminated with oil and
condensed water and some dirt. After cleanng all that, engine ran fantastic again, customer stated it ran better than before.
But that only has been one time with such problems.
So I`m sorry not to be able to help with this one.
Frank

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No That's fine Franky.

Could it have been the swirl flaps sticking in the inlet manifold and your clean freed them off? I've heard some people remove them all and the actuating mechanism as well.

Martin.

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