May I prepare a gomog article for your consideration and approval?
Originally Posted by Rog
Thank you gomog but everything I have to offer is already here. What I've done is not a definitive solution and as said above, here the information can evolve as other contributors come and go.:
Nonetheless, Rog, IMHO, it is a great start. Once posted it will get feedback. I hope,over time, that it will become a standard trads so equipped. Let's prepare these cars for the next 100 years. Now that traditional Morgans are no longer produced, I feel safe in opening a section for post 2003 traditional cars. No longer a moving target.
Thank you and YOU can call me Lorne. I prefer it :cheers :
Should any other owner wish to use this bespoke connector in the future, the download links for the 3D print files are below. The printed components have pilot fixing holes, intended to be drilled out/tapped M2.5
Just to refresh, it mates with the (dashboard sub harness) connector that would have originally plugged into the PCB’s 15 way header, here.
Out of interest is there a similar option for GDI +4’s?
There shouldn't be any need as all the functions of the essentially open/fragile PCB were located in a sealed BCU (body control unit) on Plus 4 GDI and 3.7 Roadster. This unit in fact provided more including screen heat and floor lighting timeouts and is generally considered reliable.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
It seems Morgan understood there was an issue and were starting to add PCB protection, if not a fix
I'm pleased to report the later 4/4 PCB I bought from ebay has litrally brought everything back
Rear fog light, ignition warning light, handbrake warning light, the heater fan, and even the heated screen are back. The newer 4/4 PCBs are clearly better, well they're fuse protected at least, so if it happens again I'm only in for a £0.10p fuse rather than a discontinued PCB, or trying to solder burnt tracks.
I'm not sure when the fuse protection was added, but I can confirm the crashed 4/4 my replacement PCB came from was a 2018 model, so it's also 5 - 6 years younger than Monty's original blown board that lasted 10 years before failing, so hopefully that alone means I've bought myself some more years of trouble free electrics.
In addition to the later far younger board that's also now properly fuse protected, I decided to fit an LED bulb in the rear fog light, I bought it from Classic Car LEDs as in my experience they only sell good quality LEDs. This should pull a lot less current through the circuit compared with original incandescent bulb, the idea being it will take considerable load off the board.
Actually I bought two, one for the rear fog and one for the high level brake light as that bulb had blown, these LED bulbs from Classic Car LEDs are the red output type which work way better than white LEDs under a red lense, they're very bright so I can definitely recommend them
It was a £200 spend I wasn't planning for , but hopefully the younger/newer version fuse protected PCB will last? It certainly fixed absolutely everything that had gone down on Monty and came with a nice bonus too. Unexpectedly, the breaker actually sent me the whole dash with the three gauges, and even a clock. Obviously, I only needed the PCB but I now have a spare dial set too, so I now feel it was very good value and definitely money well spent!
There was someone recently with an early Roadster who posted for advice on a duff clock (running backwards), you may be able to recover some £ if he wants it ?