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replacing the oil is a must at 6 years or 100k miles. Obviously the age is going to arrive before the mileage for most Morgan owners. I had such bad 'clunking' after twelve years that I had to get out the AA to ferry my car to the local dealer. They could find nothing wrong but I suspect that if they had replaced the oil instead of just topping it up when servicing the car I would not have had the problems I faced.


Series 1 Roadster - the original Plus 6!
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I replaced mine every 25k . That was the requirement with the same diff on the 2005 Roadster so I decided to carry it on to the 2014 Roadster.


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
I used this Les - click for source - you will need two bottles as despite what manual says mine took 1.6 litres with car level on ramp.

[Linked Image]

It's suitable for LSD diffs and contains a friction modifier. Been in for a few years now and it cured the clicking I was getting when maneovering on full lock. Likely better than adding pure friction modifier into existing dirty oil. Be aware there is an NS suffix variant for racing which doesn't contain the needed friction modifier.

I used my Draper hand operated gear oil pump from below. This avoids spill when filling from above and has a convenient hook on end of pipe for attachment to filler hole.

This oil is 75W90, the GoMog site suggests 80W140?


Roadster 3.7
Plus 4 110 Anniversary
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Originally Posted by BigLes
This oil is 75W90, the GoMog site suggests 80W140?

It probably doesn't make that much difference Les but I would rather stick with the factory manual stating 75W90 for our Roadsters.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Think the 80W-140 is what Morgan recommend for the non LSD differentials.

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Talk Morgan Expert
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Originally Posted by BigLes
Originally Posted by RichardV6
I used this Les - click for source - you will need two bottles as despite what manual says mine took 1.6 litres with car level on ramp.

[Linked Image]

It's suitable for LSD diffs and contains a friction modifier. Been in for a few years now and it cured the clicking I was getting when maneovering on full lock. Likely better than adding pure friction modifier into existing dirty oil. Be aware there is an NS suffix variant for racing which doesn't contain the needed friction modifier.

I used my Draper hand operated gear oil pump from below. This avoids spill when filling from above and has a convenient hook on end of pipe for attachment to filler hole.

This oil is 75W90, the GoMog site suggests 80W140?
Agree with Sewin.
In my book, it’s 75w90 for the gearbox but 80w140 for the rear axle.


Doug
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1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
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Fair comment Doug although Les does have a 3.7 Roadster. The universal factory manual for the runout Classics makes a distinction for them in that the thinner rear axle oil is recommended. I understand the Plus 4's also have a BTR axle albeit higher numerical ratio and was told at least some came with LSD confused2. TBH the fact that the Redline is full synthetic likely compensates and you have the advantage of less drag. I will stick with what works for me and continue to recommend it for Roadsters.


Richard

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Talk Morgan Expert
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Fair comment Doug although Les does have a 3.7 Roadster. The universal factory manual for the runout Classics makes a distinction for them in that the thinner rear axle oil is recommended. I understand the Plus 4's also have a BTR axle albeit higher numerical ratio and was told at least some came with LSD confused2. TBH the fact that the Redline is full synthetic likely compensates and you have the advantage of less drag. I will stick with what works for me and continue to recommend it for Roadsters.

Thanks for that. I never realised the 3.7 was different. Certainly my handbook of 2011 shows the same oils for all models.
Anyway, as I have always said “Any oil is far better than no oil!” 🛢️


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
Originally Posted by IcePack
I wonder if it has a LSD. They can click, depending on the oil fill & type.

Deffo an LSD, and the power of Roadsters can make then quite clicky without friction modifier

As previously posted...^^

If you want a properly developed LS oil for diffs, I recommend Millers CRX 75/140 Nanotech NT, it ain't cheap but then neither is a shredded LS diff

It will cure the 'click' and can stand the very high temps an LS diff generates, try touching your diff after a long run, you'll be shocked how hot it gets - budget oils will break down very quickly hence the clicks and sometimes notchy feeling on slow cornering, it's because the oil isn't lubing the LS cones properly


Jon M
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Originally Posted by Deejay
Anyway, as I have always said “Any oil is far better than no oil!” 🛢️
Unless it is on the floor of your garage grin2


Graham (G4FUJ)

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