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Joined: Mar 2009
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I know this probably sounds bad but when I had that exact problem on a 2014 car I tried all sorts but ended up fitting the straw to my WD-40 aerosol and getting the straw right into the side of the belt roll/fitting. A small squirt, a couple of jerks and it was free. I was concerned it would have soiled my belts but there was no problem.
Just offered as my experience.
Nick

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Ashley Offline OP
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Thanks Nick, I was rather hoping to fix this without removing the whole unit, which looks like a PIA access problem, Your solution sounds promising.
When you say "into the side" of the unit, where do you mean? Did you stick it in via the belt hole in the cockpit rear bulkhead, or sideways from the spare-wheel well? I think the whole retraction unit has the belt roll in the middle, while there are two plastic-covered compartments either side, one housing the ratchet /cog assembly, and the other side housing the main spring (not to be disassembled apparently!).
I can get a nozzle into the belt roll area, but not sure if that will then percolate through to the bits that are stuck.
I know you got yours sorted, but I was advised that WD 40 might cause damage/attract dirt, so maybe silicone lubricant is better?
I will try that tomorrow in daylight, and report back.

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Mine sometimes locks up, passenger side, usually unlocks when the car is facing uphill (!)


1969 4/4
1995 plus 8
2002 Aero S1
2013 M3W
2014 Plus 8
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I had the same problem with my 2000 +8, took it to Quickfit https://www.quickfitsbs.com/ and got both replaced while I waited, no issues since.


Mike H
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Compressed air from an airline can sometimes un-jam the thing without contaminating the belt material. Yes they are positional in that on certain slopes they will refuse to release or sometimes retract. Sounds like yours has this issue fairly regularly though. I'd take Arwyns advice and whip it out then send it for service and like DaveW said, don't take it apart they clearly have spring tensioning tools for this job! It's usually dusty muck that becomes sticky and causes the ball to stick in the locked position. Just check that the belt hasn't twisted and is sticking in the guide that sits at the top of the seat back although I assume you have been tugging at it closer to the reel!

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Originally Posted by Ashley
Thanks Nick, I was rather hoping to fix this without removing the whole unit, which looks like a PIA access problem, Your solution sounds promising.
When you say "into the side" of the unit, where do you mean? Did you stick it in via the belt hole in the cockpit rear bulkhead, or sideways from the spare-wheel well? I think the whole retraction unit has the belt roll in the middle, while there are two plastic-covered compartments either side, one housing the ratchet /cog assembly, and the other side housing the main spring (not to be disassembled apparently!).
I can get a nozzle into the belt roll area, but not sure if that will then percolate through to the bits that are stuck.
I know you got yours sorted, but I was advised that WD 40 might cause damage/attract dirt, so maybe silicone lubricant is better?
I will try that tomorrow in daylight, and report back.
I wouldn't dare recommend what I did after reading all the comments.
I got the straw into the side where the ball bearings are. My memory is that there was a plastic cover which peeled back easily without a suspicion of dismantling the unit. A brief spray and it was done.

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Have a word with Sue Taylor at http://www.fdts-seatbelts.co.uk/
They are very helpful


---------------------------
Mike Smith

2007 +4

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Ashley Offline OP
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Update:
Nick W: I tried squirting silicone lubricant in via a straw, from the cabin side through the belt-guide slot, but it evidently didn't reach the part sticking. I am reluctant to prise off the plastic cover to the inertia unit, because I fear that the only side accessible to me might contain the main spring.
I am therefore left with little alternative but to remove the whole unit..The single nut holding it to the metal bracket is reasonably accessible from the spare-wheel well, but unfortunately it is necessary to hold the top of the bolt at the same time, or they both rotate. . Apart from the very limited space, access is further restricted by the petrol filler-pipe. I fear removing that is very hazardous, especially as it is 25 years old.
I found a previous thread starting 2019 which refers to this problem:

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/580283/Replacing_the_seat_belt_on_a_2

The photos on there illustrate the access issues,, except he doesnt seem to have a petrol pipe in the way (probably because its a +4 and mine is a +8).
I am in the process of bending a 17mm spanner as advised to hold the head of the bolt, and borrowing a flexible ratchet spanner for the nut. I will keep you posted

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Ashley Offline OP
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Update: after a lot of fiddling and cursing we finally managed to undo the holding bolt today. I then unbolted the cabin anchor point and belt guide on the seat, and fed the whole lot back through the bulkhead. Even feeding the seat belt clip through required a lot of jiggling, but it went eventually.

I then rang FDTS Ltd, (West Byfleet) as recommended by others on this forum. Sue was AMAZINGLY helpful, and advised that they could fit a replacement retractor to my existing unit, as apparently MMC don't now supply one that fits the space available. She even sent pictures of the replacement, and how to dismantle the old one. Emboldened by her information as to which side housed the main spring (do not open!!) I prised off the opposite side cover and inspected the ratchet mechanism. There was no obvious problem with wear or dirt, but the operation of the ball-bearing lock ratchet was very intermittent.

I therefore posted off the whole kit to FDTS, and they will refurb it for £35 +vat. I completely concur with other TM posters that FDTS are the go-to company for any seat belt issues, good old-fashioned service by knowledgeable and really pleasant people.

Apparently fitting it back in will be an interesting challenge, but that's another story.

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Just barreling along
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I feel it's important to use these small niche artisans who can repair stuff on Classics, it's becoming a dying art & we need to support them


Jon M
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