Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing 2018 Plus4 GDI won‘t start

So, a bad start in the weekend.

This morning: the battery looks right, so I put it back in the MOG. Also the second key is with me.

The same as yesterday. Turning, but no spark. Waiting. The spare key. The same.

Check the immobilizer fuse: okay. Changing the fuel relay against the immobilzer relay… turning. No spark.

When I turn the key the voltage goes down to 10V. (on the cars display).

So a new battery. The same. Turning, no spark, both keys.

But: I found no earth for the cylinderhead? Earth from battery to batteriecarrier is okay.

Now, the cranksensor? Where I can find it (a picture would be nice)? Also I think the cylinders are flooded with a lot of fuel. Must I undo the sparkplugs for to damp out the fuel?

A little frustrated in Mainz

René

From memory, the crank sensor is on the offsite, near the pulley.

I would get the plugs out, and see if they are wet. Put them back after a warm. Good luck!

The next step:

Reading the (Mazda MX5) Haynes. Nothing about the cranksensors??? (But found) It looks bad and I think it hasn‘t a nice live in this area. But I also think it must be adjusted for a correct ignition-timing? And the torque?

But the Haynes speak about the cam-sensors. Found two of them. One looks a little wet. When I understand right, they also are important for the ignition? Would this sensor cause the problem?

And ideas? Also about the earth-wire from the engine to the chassis?

Greets René

Rene,
I assume this is the earth bolt that RichB refers to, yes it's hard to get at and takes a 8mm spanner. There is also a earth cable from a bell housing, near the starter, to the chassis.
Cheers
John.

Tell me to shut up if you've already checked but have you done a two plug spark test. ie. checked you have a spark on at least two pots?

another thought just came to me, This seems like a problem that used to regularly occur on lots of Ford cars and it turned out to be the ignition switch electrics module that sits at the back end of the ignition barrel, so the electrical connector attached to the far end of where the key goes in but right at the back end. Its plastic and wears badly. cheap to replace and simple it just sits between the electrical connector and the rear of the barrel assembly. No one could find the fault originally until a chap came in and said if he put pressure on different directions of the key, sometimes push it in, others lift it or pull it down he could get it to start. we all initially thought transponder but it wasn't!

Thank you all for some new ideas.

Today I undo one sparkplug. Form the first cylinder in the front. Dry. Dry as a desert. But I think it would be time to change them.

So the next step:
New relais immbilizer Bosch 0986 AHO 135 about 10,-EUR
New relais fuel (the same)
New Cam sensor Febi Bilstein 26513 less than 20,-EUR
Sparkplug Bosch (original FORD CYFS 12Y1) about 60,-EUR.

Than we‘ll see.

If this doesn’t work looking how to adjust a new crank sensor and renew it.

When I remove the cam-sensor this morning the screw was easy to open. When I read the (Mazda MX5) Haynes: if the sensor isn‘t fit with the correct (15 or 20NM) could cause misfunction…

So waiting for the parts and greets from Mainz

René

X , check position of sensor ring for immobiliser, sits around ignition key barrel inside the steering shroud. Firstly with key in ignition and see if the immobiliser flashing light on the dash changes. If not remove shroud and approximate the key ,plastic end to the exposed sensor ring, any change to the light? if so you have about 20 seconds to start the car before it will re-set itself. Cam sensor, when removed check the patency of the ring on the cam shaft itself, its possible that this can become loose and can spin around freely which will effect the function, check that its fixed by gently trying to turn it. I use a pencil with a rubber on the end inserted through the hole. The tightness of the sensor is important in that it must not be able to move but over-tightening would in reality only damage the mounting threads. I thought you said on a start that you could smell fuel yet the no. one plug is dry. Check other plugs for fuel after a failed start, if all cylinders are dry you will need to follow the fuel route through from the tank. look at the fuel pump relay in the back of the car. It's under the spare wheel carrier. 3 bolts hold the wheel frame and three little @BA sized nuts and bolts at the rearmost lip to the chassis. You can then lift out the spare wheel support plate. It, the relay sits slightly right of centre and is probably the lowest electrical fitting. an odd 6 sided shaped thing. First check the electrical connection, remove, visually inspect then refit, I use deoxit on my fittings, It's a harsh environment down there!

Keep going it will get fixed!

Hello Sewin,

thank you for the information. But at the 2018 Plus4 the fuelrelais Sites beside the relais for the immobilizer. It‘s the same relais.I ordered two of them and will change them both.

After all bespoke stuff I look forward for a happy running engine and MOG. If not the next step is the area of the key and lock.
I think it isn‘t the silly barrel at the end of the lock in cause the engine turns well, so the barrel switches the nessesary contact.

But as every journey, every step is a step forward. I hope ;-)

Greets René

Yes they turn over alright but engine doesn't start because it doesn't get the wake up signal.