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Originally Posted By Philippo
Brian, I'd meant to ask you about that. Although I spent quite a bit of time looking over the MTW at the factory I didn't look specifically at what might limit lock, though I certainly noticed how poor it was during my brief test.

I'm afraid that I've done the same Philip, i.e. not looked closely, I'm in Africa now but will look at mine in more detail when I return at the weekend.

In view of the wide front track I don't see why it has such a poor lock, maybe it's the rather enclosed mudguards. confused2


Brian

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Bring some nice weather back with you pleeeeeeeeease


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Originally Posted By deanroyal
Bring some nice weather back with you pleeeeeeeeease

notworthy thumbs sunny

on the turning circle: it almost touches the exhaust on full lock
guess those are a limiting factor
imho better to change the building-plan


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Could it be that they placed the steering rod (the one going from aft of the wheel into the center/steering wheel pipe further aft so it would be easier to turn while standing still?

I mean, if the rod parallel to the wheel - the one going aft from the center of the wheel were a bit shorter, the push-pull of the perpendicular rod would achieve more of a turn of the wheel.
Of course, in order for the power needed to turn the wheel, the steering wheel itself would need to be bigger than the standard.

I'm having trouble explaining this in words, a drawing would do much better, but I hope it's somewhat understandable, if not, perhaps I should try with a picture?






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Originally Posted By 1560


on the turning circle: it almost touches the exhaust on full lock
guess those are a limiting factor
imho better to change the building-plan


Oh! Never mind my attempt at a solution, since my solution would then make it go even closer.
Perhaps a combination of lowering the exhausts (i.e. the wheel is narrower further down) and the shortening of the rod going from the center of the wheel could be workable, as far as I can see.

Last edited by AQM; 27/02/12 02:36 PM.
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getting to "drift" it very controlled
then no turning is neccesary
getcoat


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AQM, I think I understand what you are saying. Assuming track rods go out perpendicular to the wheels, the further the steering rack centreline is away from the wheel axle, the more rack movement is required to turn the wheels.

Cheers


Philip

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Originally Posted By Philippo
AQM, I think I understand what you are saying. Assuming track rods go out perpendicular to the wheels, the further the steering rack centreline is away from the wheel axle, the more rack movement is required to turn the wheels.

Cheers


Exactly, Phillippo!


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TM Photographer of 2011
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Chapeau! Thanks for sharing these very good pictures.


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Originally Posted By Martyn Culling
Question, what's the front tyre pressure?

Interested as the front tyres are exactly what I run on my vintage trike. Suspect it'll be a pound or two more pressure than I use as the new three wheeler is heavier.
I use 19 psi at the front, and 25 psi at the rear - completely different rear tyre.

According to the handbook Martyn, the correct pressures for cold tyres are as follows:
Front tyres - 22psi or 1.5bar
Rear tyres - 25psi or 1.7bar

I don't know how that compares with the ones on your vintage trike.



Brian

1970 Morgan Plus 8 - Moss Box (Indigo Blue)
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