Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Plus 4 heater control

Can someone advise what the dashboard heater control switch is actually connected to. On my 2009 Plus 4 it is very stiff but will go through 4 clicks and the heater is effective, On a friends 2013 Plus 4 there a physical connection to a damper lever on the side of the heater box, but nothing so obvious on mine.

I believe that era of Morgan Classics had started using a heater box with permanently fed engine heat as per all such until end of production. The change of heater control took place at least as early as 2006 so similar to your friends car, the actual heat output being controlled by a pair of airbox flaps you describe allowing a chosen balance between heated and unheated air. The click detent control operates a crude gear wheel behind dash engaging with holes on a bellcrank in turn operating a bowden cable control to flaps. It can benefit from greasing of the gear wheel/bellcrank, maybe easing with a little oil first, to lighten operation.

I had the same issue, my heater control was so stiff you'd swaer the cable was completely seized within it's outer.

However, not so!

I dropped the dash, found the little gear wheel, and sinmply softened the hardened grease with a sqirt of WD40.

Working the heater control through its travel a few times with the cable discinnected and rotating the gear wheel in the process freed everything up a treat, I did also flush the cable with some WD40 but 95% of the issue was the hardened grease on the gear wheel.

I finished the job by applying a few drops of ATF to the gear wheel and ran a little down the cable too, with the cable reconnected and the dash back on I re-tested my freshly lubricated heater control and the difference was astonishing, it had gone from 'I think I'm going to break it' stiff, to fingertip light operation forward and back.

Job done


NB: I also used the same hardened grease thinning method on my wiper motor wheel box, and with equally sucessful results.

Hi Monteque, Sorry a late reply as only just reading this, When you say dropped the dash is that the bottom panel held with 3 screws rather than the dash front with all the clocks on it? So you will be working up under the dash?

Nev, sorry we should have been more explicit, The dash on your car will have three screws across the top, each end at the window extremities and one in the centre, sometimes the centre screw is behind the dash bumper and this needs it to be pushed up a fraction to see it.
First though, under the dash there is a plastic finishing trim and there are two small Phillips head screws each side holding it to the body of the car, they are black and all four need removing first. Now lift the steering column to maximum height placing a cloth between the top of the column and the dash. Remove the Left hand door side screen. next remove the three main dash screws, you will not need to hold the dash to do this as the column will keep it in place. With all screws out and sitting in the drivers seat push up under the centre of the dash forcing it against the dash top. Put a knee under the steering wheel and reaching down release the column adjuster lever. Allow the wheel to drop and when fully down the dash might follow it or if it's never been out before it may stick there. If it does gently pull on the bottom to release it, shouldn't take much force. When free slowly lower the dash until it's sitting on the steering column. Now roll the top towards you looking into the rear as you can now start to see behind it. Make sure you're not stressing any wiring or connections as you do this, keep rotating it until the clocks are facing the floor then carefully slide the whole dash to the left until the left edge is sitting on the left door top and the other side is still resting on the cloth on the column. you can now check and service the heater mechanism.

If you use the search bar and check my posts I previously posted this in some detail when describing how to change a windscreen bottom seal. along with other things to check when you have access, namely the washer jet hoses. You will also see clearly all the interior fuses and relays. Hope this helps.




N.B. Some recommend disconnecting the battery prior to dash access. For me unless I'm fiddling with the electrics I don't bother but the choice its yours.

Can I also suggest that you get a copy of Dave Wellings excellent book. buying and maintaining a modern traditional Morgan. This is based on the long door cars post 1997 and holds a massive amount of information on the cars from your period. There are no workshop manuals as such for the later cars but I cannot recommend this book enough.
The Morgans now described as the classics are simple cars but this book will help guide you in all areas of ownership.