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I've used this company for MGB bits, but they do replacement tray and a toolbox for Morgans

https://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cat.asp?carID=20&page=MORGAN


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
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Although they do versions of this, my Roadster, 2012 Plus 4 and 2016 Plus 4 all had changes, especially the size and location of the tank and fuel pump. In fact MMC used at least two versions of the tray because I had both. So some fettling might be necessary.


DaveW
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Thanks chaps for the excellent tips/suggestions. I'm quite keen on exploring the "delete, then clear acrylic sheet" route. I shall report back.


Peter
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Chris
I have my old plastic mmc tool tray if you want to experiment
John


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Originally Posted by Lordofthewings
Good suggestions, thanks. In past years I have used fibreglass mat/resin to repair things, but the ABS plastic (I believe) that the tool tray is moulded from seems to be adhesive-resistant (I have even tried a temporary fix/bodge using black duct tape, but despite careful cleaning/de-greasing it pretty much just peels off).

The irony is that the original jack is too tall to get under the front suspension (especially with the A/C pipework in the way), so I use shallow ramps to raise the front of the car when changing wheels etc using a trolley jack (and with axle stands of course). And I have 2-eared spinners, for which I use a "Lionel Wheel-Widget" tool with a breaker bar. And my grease gun is a different shape/size from the original one. So basically the tool tray doesn't meet my requirements, apart from forming a barrier against road grime getting up on the plywood shelf. Still annoying though to have the original one cracked/holed.

As for what the cause of the cracks was, the weight of the jack/mallet/grease gun etc may have depressed the level of the tray in its early life, to the extent that the couple of inches of upward movement of the diff housing when driving meant it had rubbed or bashed against the tray. (I seem to recall reading about that on here and in Dave Wellings' book).

[Linked Image]

Peter, those two bolts through the tubular damper hoop should have a thick rubber block on the other side (not visible in photo) to stop the diff hitting the tool tray, I've seen Mogs with it missing


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Originally Posted by CooperMan
Peter, those two bolts through the tubular damper hoop should have a thick rubber block on the other side (not visible in photo) to stop the diff hitting the tool tray, I've seen Mogs with it missing
Aha, therein could lay the bashing issue. This was an early photo in my ownership (all the crud since cleaned off), I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I have "the block"


Peter
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You can also fit them the wrong way around. The jack hole should be at the back


JohnV6
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Our 2014 4/4 has two rubber blocks on the hoop. I added the second in an attempt to stop the crashing. It didn’t work.

Rog’s bump stops / rising rate spring assisters did work though.


Paul
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Try to turn it by 180° and check the gap.


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Have also a look at other post about homemade tooltrays.

https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/724046/1

Dave Wellings has also collected some ideas.

Greets René

Last edited by xc68anc; 12/11/25 02:53 PM.

2018 plus4 (sports green)
with a homemade really shiny red tinted dash…
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