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My 4/4 ran for 30 k without change.
The +4 is at 20k since I had it and 35k in total on orignal pins.
But I do grease regularly.

I agree that stainless can be very soft it is also not good with chlorides depending upon the grade so if road salt gets in depending upon the grade it will rapidly corrode.


By chance after posting this I cam across this:-
http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan6.html#Hard

Last edited by John +4; 26/02/12 11:45 AM.

JohnV6
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After looking at the very expensive spring covers on Ebay, as my boss has a sewing shop, she has just made me a set of lower spring covers in black leather with velcro fastening, I made the paper templates for her to work from. They fitted perfectly in a couple of minutes, I have also used a cable tie around the top for extra security. She is now taking orders !!

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How stiff should the front suspension be? When you hit a bump it appears too stiff.
Pete
1966 series V roadster

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The suspension on cars is quite hard compared to a modern car, I think the light weight also contributes.

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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By pdgpete
How stiff should the front suspension be? When you hit a bump it appears too stiff.
Pete
1966 series V roadster


If your front suspension is too stiff when it hits a bump, it's almost certainly because your rebound springs are too long and are preloading the suspension. When your car is at static ride height, the rebound spring needs to be just free of the stub axle. It must not be too short, as it is necessary to add roll stiffness as quickly as possible when the car goes into a bend.

The easy way to check is to reach under your car when it is sat on its wheels and see if you can turn the rebound spring by hand. If you can't, then it's under compression and therefore preloading the main spring, leading to an extremely high spring rate for the first bit of travel.

To figure out the correct length needed, you need to assemble the suspension without the rebound springs and measure the gap between the bottom of the stub axle and the bottom of the king pin.

Cutting the rebound springs is the only option as they aren't available in different length. They are extremely hard, so you'll need an angle grinder.

If your rebound springs are free and your front is still too stiff, then the main spring rate is too high, so you need to think about replacing them with something a bit softer.


Tim H.
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So this can't be right. The photo shows you can move the rebound spring vertically some 10mm when sitting on level ground. I can rotate the near side rebound spring but NO vertical movement, Hmmmmmm...



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Originally Posted By OZ 4/4
So this can't be right. The photo shows you can move the rebound spring vertically some 10mm when sitting on level ground. I can rotate the near side rebound spring but NO vertical movement, Hmmmmmm...


What's the gap between top of tyre and underside of wing? Does the car sit level on the ground?


Tim H.
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That looks incorrect to me, on my car there is no gap above the spring. I can just about turn the springs as suggested in an earlier post.

Do you have any suspension travel at all on that side, it looks like the bushes are siezed on the pin.

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Originally Posted By OZ 4/4
So this can't be right. The photo shows you can move the rebound spring vertically some 10mm when sitting on level ground. I can rotate the near side rebound spring but NO vertical movement, Hmmmmmm...

I hope it is not the same problem you had with the rear spring. It may be that the spring is suffering from being held in a completely compressed state for the entire sea voyage. Have you measured the length of the springs on both sides?


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I have no gap on mine. I agree that looks really odd.


JohnV6
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2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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