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Joined: Nov 2022
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Just Getting Started
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Quick update…

Perspex panel did not want to be relocated in situ. Part of the rubber backed flocked lining had disappeared round the back or the window.

Gentle heat to make the window more pliable made the panel reasonably easy to flex out.

Some more gentle heat and the blunt knife and the rubber was reshaped appropriately.

Perspex panel went back into the slot no issues after some more gentle heat however…

… whilst I can move the window with some force, it’s really, really tight and you would have no chance of opening it from inside the car using the knob. Even Sewen's flexing trick didn’t help!

I probably shouldn’t have with the lining being flocked, but even some silicone grease top and bottom made it no easier.

I’m sure the factory check it on its way out but I am where I am.

With the warning about rattling windows ringing in my ears, I am considering flexing the panel out again to give it a very slight sanding on one edge to see if that makes a difference?

Last edited by Tykester; 19/10/25 10:20 PM.

2019 Roadster 110 Anniversary

1999 4/4
Vespa PX125
Royal Alloy GP125MT

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Tricky Dicky
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Tricky Dicky
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Well done, Woolies are great for the channel linings as well as a plethora of other useful bits and pieces at good prices.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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Needs to Get Out More!
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Originally Posted by Tykester
Quick update…

Perspex panel did not want to be relocated in situ. Part of the rubber backed flocked lining had disappeared round the back or the window.

Gentle heat to make the window more pliable made the panel reasonably easy to flex out.

Some more gentle heat and the blunt knife and the rubber was reshaped appropriately.

Perspex panel went back into the slot no issues after some more gentle heat however…

… whilst I can move the window with some force, it’s really, really tight and you would have no chance of opening it from inside the car using the knob. Even Sewen's flexing trick didn’t help!

I probably shouldn’t have with the lining being flocked, but even some silicone grease top and bottom made it no easier.

I’m sure the factory check it on its way out but I am where I am.

With the warning about rattling windows ringing in my ears, I am considering flexing the panel out again to give it a very slight sanding on one edge to see if that makes a difference?

Try some silicone grease first.


Richard

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S
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Yes, Woolies are the go to for anything like that.

Before doing anything more check you frame hasn't been bent. You often get distortion for a couple of reasons, these being they get knocked when not on the car and either stored or transported in or on the rack when traveling. Or more likely having been force bent to try and make the top screen to hood seal better. Often this is done in error as there is a door top fitting protocol and if not followed correctly the gaps left can be quite impressive.

Now, your assumption that they leave the factory correctly fitted and working in a functional manner is frankly a myth. I'd make a guess that more are badly fitted and over tight than working well! Some of us older idiots on a factory tour notice these things as we are not so dazzled by the shiny bits anymore! And in the past I have seen some awful door and windscreen alignments. In all fairness to Morgan now, they have pulled their socks up in all areas of fitting and PDI inspections.

So, if you are happy that the screen top is true I would replace the channel rubbers, you would be surprised how distortion can grab the plastic and prevent it running. Also solvents used to polish the plexi glass can cause swelling to the rubber. If its still tight, stand outside the car and hold the door between your legs. Flex the plastic panel outwards by pushing on it and with your free hand using the finger and thumb around the top of the frame go along the top rail and wiggle the panel side to side to locate tight areas. Stick a small tape marker on the panel and frame when you find one. Now move the panel a couple of inches and repeat. is the tight area associated now with the frame or panel, ie, has it stayed with the mark on the frame or panel. Once ascertained you will need to decide on your choice of remedy.
In the past some owners have found that the protective tape on the frame sections had been left in the channel and this had bunched up over time an caused a jam point. Also the edges of the panel that slide, top and bottom need the edges relieving and polishing, if not done well enough it will jam in the best of situation regarding fit.

Last edited by sewin; 20/10/25 08:48 AM. Reason: needed to add information
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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I have tape, I have thumb and forefinger, I have knees...

...and I have Mondays off!

Tried the silicone grease RichardV6 (paragraph 6 original post).

Woolies catalogue on the way to add to Uncle Melvyn's Mogparts one!


2019 Roadster 110 Anniversary

1999 4/4
Vespa PX125
Royal Alloy GP125MT

Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 31
Likes: 7
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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No dice with the flexing, bending and trying to move the panel bit by bit.

I guess I will just have to wait for the Woolies catalogue and look at new channel rubbers!


2019 Roadster 110 Anniversary

1999 4/4
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Royal Alloy GP125MT

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Talk Morgan Sage
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"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
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Next time you ping the window out have a look at the four corners, if it's a really sharp 90, try easing with a small radius, that way it helps guide the end of the perspex to slide, rather than dig into the soft channel liner


Jon M
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