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Terry D Offline OP
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Just wandering how easy it is to remove & refit the walnut dash on my Roadster. Any nasties I should be aware of before I start?

thanks


Regards Terry

2010 Indigo Blue Roadster
1963 James Sports Captain
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Empty the glove box
Lower steering wheel to lowest position and cover with padding such as old towels
Remove all small screws that secure undertray to dash
Remove the three screws that secure dash to scuttle
Carefully remove dash towards you and lay across steering column, but be careful of wiring connectors that can pop apart, as wiring may be tight.
Double check all connectors are together before replacing.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
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Terry D Offline OP
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Thanks Doug


Regards Terry

2010 Indigo Blue Roadster
1963 James Sports Captain
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Terry

Nothing much to add to Doug's post except it it is a good idea to have an old blanket (or similar) ready to lay the dashboard onto rather than rest actually touching the steering column. However sometimes this is unnecessary as the wiring prevents it touching at all.

Top Tip: While you are under the dash , label the relays which are mounted on the bulkhead, you will thank yourself for that when you need to replace them. I don't know the details of the Roadster wiring , but one will be the fuel pump relay (on the right with a purple and black feed wire) . This is the one that needs replacing most frequently.


Andy G
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My add is take photos of every stage of removal and also label the connectors as you disconnect them; I use little sticky numbers. All helps to make sure correct connector goes to correct connector.


Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
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All good advice. I might add: the towels on the steering column will support the driver's side of the dash (obviously...), but it is good to support the passenger side also. I use a string, make a loop that goes around the dash and attach it to the top of the front screen. And while you are there, check wether the screen washer tubing and connections are ok. You do not want to irrigate the dash from behind...


Robbie the Norseman
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Install a power socket on the under tray whilst you are in there. I also installed and under dash light which lights up the footwells and also allows a document to be read whilst on your knee

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all good information.
I have a 1963 morgan plus 4 DHC.
that the speedometer took a dive and and I sent it in for repair, having some problems getting it out to replace dash lights and reinstalling .
I removed oil presser connection , speedometer cable, RPM cable, and looks like the choke cable needs to be undone also....
if I remove the attching point on the steering wheel can it be lowered a bit to lay on the wheel?
the gas gage and 2 lights were burnt out as the speedometer stoped working.
am I missing any other disconnent to help with everything?
I have had my 1st morgan for just over a year, bought it after frame off restoration needing only a paint job and new hood. things i did over winter. since then entered 4 car shows and won a "1st place,"a "best restored," a "3rd place" and " Pastors choice"
say the least I am over the moon with the whole morgan thing, the 1st place was at the Morgan car club of washington DC meeting with about 50 other morgans...
thanks for any help you can give me with this..
ric odonnell
would like to post a photo but have not been able to do so yet.


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There are also small phillips wood screws which hold the dash plastic under panel to the wood that need removing too, 2 each side.

Raise the steering column to its max height before undoing anything with a micro fibre cloth in between dash and column. Remove left side door side screen and lay a cloth over the door top. Now remove all fixing screws, 3 to dash top and the small underside screws as described.
With your left hand holding the dash in position, pushing upwards, lower the steering column fully. Now gently using both hands lower the dash to sit on the steering column. When resting on that roll the top of the dash forward until the instruments are facing down. You can now move the dash to the left and rest the left hand end on the left door top so it now rests on door and column. Carry on number one! Theres no real weight to the dash assembly and there's nothing frightening behind it either, its all pretty basic. Good previous advise to fit an extra power socket when in there, piggy backed off the current one. And if your washer tubes are black rubber things replace them and the connectors as they will fail and stuff the PCB at some point if you don't.

Also check the grease on the heater quadrant control and replace/ re lubricate. There are other jobs you can do as well but some familiarisation is really needed and I'm sure you will have your own level and understanding of what you will decide to do . You might consider DaveW's protection cover he fitted for the PCB and instruments in case of any water ingress. Easy to do and a simple mod. Shown again in this months Miscellany mag from MSCC. Dave points this out as one of his most important mod's along with an engine cover for the flat Ford engines on 1984 -2019 classics.

Last edited by sewin; 17/11/25 01:18 PM.
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Disconnect the battery first & take pictures as you lower the dash in case wires pull out. It can also make sense to replace the y splitter on the screen was tubes as mine cracked. The tubing as said is rubbish so replace it.


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"

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