Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Easy Up Hood fits loosely

Thank you for this information!
I am planning to clean the inner side my of easy up hood....

I wonder whether there ist a "Standart direction" or do I have to adjust the Pins?

You can see the bend as it follows the arc of the rear part of the hood as you lift it looking from the side

Jon: Thank you!

I'll get my hood back from the trim shop in the next week.

So I can go on with my next work.

Ah linklaw, I found adjusting the hood for fit didn't effect fit at the rear hood bonnet catches as they operate on a separate rotation. I made the initial adjustment with the rear catches closed and adjusted the hood until it was just slightly too tight to fit the header rail to the screen top. I then released the rear catches and fitted the header rail to the screen. You can now adjust the frame if needed so that when you apply a small amount of pressure the the rear section there is about an inch of gapping between the rear hood frame and the body. This then allows you to slam the rear hood frame down into the lock position and tightens the hood perfectly.
I did have to make an adjust ment to the hole size on one side. Old round file in a cordless drill.

Point to remember.... how vulnerable screens are to cracking. You may recall how owners were reporting cracked screens, not that long ago in fact, some appearing overnight when stationary and others when the screen/pillers are used as support to enter or exit the car. So a compromise is required so as not to stress the screen.

I have also found when working on many Classics that the screen pillars to scuttle mounting fixings are nearly always loose yet the screen appears reasonably secured. You can only assess this by removing the three dash screws and rolling the dash forward... don't forget the two small screws each side holding the lower plastic trim on some models as well!!!

If this is the case with your car, with the hood folded back loosen all the screen pillar fixings then adjust the screen position for best fit to the scuttle that won't stress the screen when re tightened.
Lastly adjust the hood to pillar locking clips. They need to be just tight enough to stop the header rail from riding up yet not so tight as to feel like you are holding a Land Rover bonnet down. Just the merest resistance as the toggle enters its lock position. If it feels tight to close then it's too tight!

Sewin, thanks for the description. I looked at the holes for adjusting the frame on my car this morning. It appears on the left hand side, the frame is moved to the rear of the car and on the right hand side it is the opposite, and is moved to the front of the car. I am guessing I will need to even them out. So, by moving the frame toward the rear of the elongated holes, I take it, will tighten the hood and moving forward will loosen it? I will give this a try in the next couple days when it either warms up a bit here in Southwestern Pennsylvania, or will need to move the car to the side of the garage where the heater is. I will report back with the results.

John

Those hood rail sliding joints work the same each side. They are provided to match the hood material to frame, in turn providing enough tension to limit excessive drumming which can occur at speed and in strong winds. I agree they will likely have minimal impact on the tension of rear (bonnet) pin fixings although all part of a balancing act to reach an ideal.