Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars My Morgan Sports Car Moving from A Roadster 3.7 to a Plus 6

It's almost a crime that MMC continued to offer brake reaction bars as an option only until end of Classic production. They improve front suspension integrity on all points of driving.

Hi John,

I recently switched to the CX chassis, after owning several pre-CX models

The difference is enormous on several levels :

- the aluminum chassis
- proper suspension
- modern comforts: air conditioning / automatic transmission / central locking...
- the performance!! BMW engines are very powerful and have excellent torque, the ZF transmission is a real treat.

I don't think I could ever go back to a pre-CX

My friend BertR switched from a Roadster3.0 to a PlusSix 1 year ago and is very happy with it. I myself made the switch from a trad 4/4 (which we keep in the family) tot a manual CX PlusFour beginning 2023. It's one of the last build PlusFours before the airbags and ESP came. I bought it new, wanted a manual and a traditional MotoLita steeringwheel. No regrets. I drove an automatic too, and that's very easy and fast (as a BMW driver I know the ZF autobox...), but I wanted the classic feel of manual gear changing. I know I'm part of a minority! My wife and I made many trips in our 4/4 through the continent and the UK, but it's evident that touring in the CX PlusFour is so much easier, effortless, with a smooth ride and very good Comfort Plus seats. The next trip to France, Switzerland and Germany with a group of Morganfriends is already planned. It just had its 3 years service with a software update I was told by my dealer. That's it. Last year I had a radiator replacement during service when a tiny leak was discovered. I had the Ninon upgrade done 1 year ago, which is a big improvement, and for me, my manual "Nitron" CX is the one to have!!! It still has the classic look!

I have and love the manual cx

I confess to being a slow learner. I have had my Roadster Sport for ten years now and changed the usuals in the suspension dept. Panhard Rod, brake reaction bars, etc but the other day remembered that the shocks were adjustable so stiffened them by two clicks all round and suddenly the car felt factory fresh . I don't know whether a change in the rear suspension would make it any better ( it has never bottomed out ) and I have no experience of the CX chassis but this was a terrific change for free.

If two clicks made that much difference it may be the ideal of zero pre-load static on rebound spring needs attending to as well. The extra damping would tend to mask excessive rebound travel as a result of sagging main springs on an older car. Easily solved if you have the SSL RS kit of course.

Thanks for that Richard > I can place two, nearly three fingers between rear tyres and their wheel arches and the springs are equal each side ( no droop as yet) : any other ideas welcome.

We may have misunderstood each other as I was referring to front suspension. On that you need to measure the gap between bottom of front stub axle casting and top of rebound spring underneath it and each side. Ideally they should be zero with no compression of rebound spring, i.e. one should be just touching the other. You may have to jack car up and down a few times to get a mean reading.

Okay, Thanks.

Being a New Boy to Morgans .....does the 2013 Roadster have adjustable suspension .....all completely std BTW.