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Ok, so I assume that to check the valves, I would remove the Valve covers and visually inspect that everything is intact?

The ECM is reset, since I had the battery disconnected whilst changing out the fuel pump and filter. I also verified that the Codes were cleared.

I will check if the Tach moves during starting


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Originally Posted by GLLOQ
The last time my engine suddenly lost power with a bling bling noise, I managed to get home with one engine cylinder (about 10 km): it was the broken valve spring retainer cup, it's easy to check.
GLLOQ, you win the prize!

I removed the Front/Left Rocker Box cover, and one of the rocker arm nuts was completely loose, and the push rod not connected!
I checked the push rod was not bent (rolling it like a cue stick) and then reassembled the rocker arm using threadlok and the torque value from S&S. I went ahead and removed and reassembled the other three, and they were all not tight.

NOW, it did not start easily. In fact, it was very rough, and would not idle, I had to keep the RPM's up to run out the smoke from the exhaust. It eventually evened out somewhat, but it still did not idle, and it does not start easily like before.
I checked the ECM and no new codes.

Is this common after a battery disconnect?

BTW, yes, the tachometer does move during starting.


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Did you check the Hydraulic tappets for damage?
Its at the base of the push rods so if a push rod has been bouncing up and down under no control then it may have damaged the hydraulic tappet crown which would lead to the valve not opening correctly.

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Originally Posted by Stevo666
Did you check the Hydraulic tappets for damage?
Its at the base of the push rods so if a push rod has been bouncing up and down under no control then it may have damaged the hydraulic tappet crown which would lead to the valve not opening correctly.
Thanks for the advice. How do I go about checking them? Do I need to pull the heads to get to them? They are at the bottom of the tube, so not easy to see.


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Originally Posted by Nukebug
[quote=GLLOQ]NOW, it did not start easily. In fact, it was very rough, and would not idle, I had to keep the RPM's up to run out the smoke from the exhaust. It eventually evened out somewhat, but it still did not idle, and it does not start easily like before.
I checked the ECM and no new codes.

Is this common after a battery disconnect?

No it should start and run normally after a battery disconnect.


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Just to wrap this up, I did a leak down test on the head, and the intake valve is leaking, so I am removing the heads to send them for a valve job. It was a fun 2 weeks that I actually got to drive it! gloomy


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Originally Posted by Nukebug
Just to wrap this up, I did a leak down test on the head, and the intake valve is leaking, so I am removing the heads to send them for a valve job. It was a fun 2 weeks that I actually got to drive it! gloomy

I bought mine new in 2016. On the drive home, lost all power and had to push it about 100 yards to get it off the 4 lane (busy) road I was on. This was about 45 min away from the dealer I had just left. I got a jump start (which worked) from a local, and was on my way. After charging the battery once home, it started several times, but noticed the voltage kept being low while driving. Took back to dealer, they assumed the rectifier was the culprit, so they replaced that. Same thing happened a few days later. After much detective work, they found that some imperfect connection of ground near the battery was the issue. A little sanding and all fixed. You just never know….sucks when you have just acquired it and can’t enjoy it for a few weeks, but once sorted, you just enjoy the drives while awaiting the next learning experience.


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Good point on the poor ground connection, Joejoe.
I think it may have been poor grounding that fried my original turn signal module.
I now keep a fresh battery on a maintenance charger, and frequently check my ground connections, which are prone to loosening due to engine vibration.
Cheap insurance to avoid bigger issues.

Last edited by Piloto; 26/04/26 05:49 PM.
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Hello there!! I believe you have the same trouble me and another owner in Lisbon are experiencing! I own a 2014 M3W and since 1,5 years from now starting the engine was becoming harder and harder untill it just didnt start without a push. Iddle was normal and running particularly high rpms above 2k was absolutely fine! Then I left at a certified garage in Lisbon where they had already another 3wheeler with misfire - they identified fault at hydraulic tappets! Currently cars are stopped more than 7 months ago since original S&S X-Wedge Hydraulic Tappets (part number 37-0030) seems to have been discontunued from S&S and european stocks like zodiac dont have them!! I am looking for these and probably more morgans might stop since these seem to fail with time, anyone might know or have stock for these?

My 3wheeler engine serial number P5600503

Best and luck with yours!!

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PM Sent

And which accredited garage is it as MMC do not seem to have any dealers in Portugal?

Last edited by Stevo666; 06/05/26 07:52 PM. Reason: added info
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