Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Rear Axle oil change

Gents

Thanks for all your replies. Richard thanks for the link to the pump I will look into that.

Sewin would you believe I ordered and paid for the Lodexol oil about an hour before reading your post. If there is a 50/50 chance I will pick the wrong one !! Still, it will do for this time around. I did speak to the tech team at Morris before purchase as my main concern was its compatibility with a non LSD axle and they assured me it was. They said I was simply paying for additives I did not need.

On the subject of annealing I agree with you and CooperMan, as he says, you are guaranteed a perfect fit. My only point is, in the photo I referred to on Gomog showing the drain plug bolt, the washer appeared to be aluminium not copper. If that is the case according to the internet the way to check you have achieved the correct temperature for annealing aluminium is, first hold the component near to a lit candle to cover it with soot. Then when heating with a MAP torch wait till the soot disappears then allow the component to cool. Any comments?

Once again thank you to everyone for your replies.

Regards Tony

Hi Zach,

I use Morgan images from everywhere. That one was from Wolf Performance (aka Cajn Poulton).

Frankly, for the last 35 years I use PTFE Teflon tap on the threads of every plug on liguid junction. This allows me to avoid the most common mistake of amateurs..namely over-tightening. Our bunch shear bolts, ruin threads and worse every time we touch something in the beginning. I use teflon tape (used to be called "plumber's tape") but now savvy automobile mechanics use it and it comes in a petrol-safe version (yellow). The dire warnings of old timers 30 years ago that it would cause damage, never panned out..though you must wrap the tape properly. which the internet will explain 1000 times. I have never had an issue using it on any of my cars and I'm clumsy.

The tape solves the problem of torque, rust and seals with non-precise threads. https://www.accu.co.uk/ptfe-tape/768152-HPTFET-PTFE-Y

I have updated the BTR fluids section once again. Essentially the open axle and LSD use the same base fluid but the LSD axles should have the friction modifier especially those from 1999 on. On the other hand, if you accidentally use the friction modifier in an open or non-LSD axle, it will not cause harm.

Lorne

Try wrapping the plug with PTFE plumbers tape. It works for me with new or re-used washers and in between the threads causes progressive tightening and a super seal.

I would always choose copper as a plug sealing washer. It has the greater maleability over aluminium, being its ability to deform under compression. Copper also has greater ductility as well, its ability to stretch. If you've ever bent aluminium sheet in a vice to make a bracket you will have noted on the outside of the bend the metal tends to tear if the bend is tight whereas copper wouldn't.

I think that the aluminium washer is probably a dowty washer, I.e. has a bonded rubber inner and should be changed when removed. Copper would be better in this application

Yep, I'm afraid ally washers came in as popular when alloy engines and gearbox casings being also alloy were the common new fit. Copper being higher up the noble scale can in theory degrade the seat of the alloy components. I still use copper whenever I need to change for new. Annealing alloy washers is a waste of effort as they are just too brittle. You can use them again more times if you grease them to prevent tearing but when knackered they're knackered! I then use a copper replacement item..... far superior as a crush seal!

Well Lodexol was a revolution for ford gearboxes when it first came into being and it's a good oil so don't kick yourself too hard. The modern oils tend to have the same ability to cushion gear contact yet are lighter so reduce drag although the BTR truck gearbox tolerances.... well check the end float on the half shafts!

The LSD additives, well most modern diff oils seem to have it in, but don't be surprised if you have to add a little more after quite a short while. anyway I'm not sure you are really paying extra for additives you don't need if using a non LSD diff, I think the manufacturers find it easier to add it in anyway! And it has no detrimental effect when used in a standard diff.

My son has just changed out of his first car, a 2012 VW polo. It had covered 100.000 miles and needed a new cam chain, which I duly changed, after which I fully serviced the car and then some! I don't believe in gearbox oil for life claims that VW and others state so changed that as well. I had Lodexol gearbox oil on the shelf of the correct grade so in went 1.7lt...... ye god's, the difference it made to that gearbox was remarkable! I had changed it when we got the car at 47.000 mls using a VW product and didn't really notice any difference, I did this time.

Agreed Moggo. Yellow PTFE though they don't change the colour of the tape itself in the UK..only the roll-holder is merely plumber's tape that is petrol-safe. It will not degrade as many plumber's tape reputedly will when used with petrol, oil etc. Costs the same..you merely have to search for it. Tape is a surer bet than washers, though washers are more quaint. Of course, you can use both at the same time for redundancy.

I used to use copper washers and still like them. One must buy a few at time as they are size sensitive, (unlike our tape). They CANNOT be re-used. Like you, I have found plumber's tape more reliable and it handles problems of knackered threads on both sides and owners who torque to eye-popping. You merely have to use it properly. I'll search out a decent youtube video now of instructions, though wrapping threads a little is certainly not rocket science and a roll of the right tape costs around 1-2 pounds/dollars. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/efTqIIAfPhI

Lorne (who loves redundancy)

The dowty washers I've seen have always had a steel base. Simply because it doesn't distort under compression and so compromise the rubber seal supported by it. I have seen plenty of plain aluminium sealing washers though with sewin's explanation of their introduction making sense.

Hi all

Thank you all for taking the time and trouble to post replies on what must be to you people a rather trivial matter of a simple oil change job. I really appreciate it.

Loarn Thank you for your thoughts on the use of PTFE tape. I have used yellow PTFE tape many times on plumbing jobs and the compressed air installation in my workshop. The problem I have with it is, on the odd occasion when I need to temporarily dismantle one of the joints, I find it difficult to clean the remains of the old tape out of the female thread ready for re-use. I would be worried about pushing some of the old tape into the diff chamber when next doing the oil change not knowing what problems, if any, that might cause.

Richard and Sewin given your comments on copper, I think I will fit a copper washer regardless of what I find behind the head of the drain plug bolt and then, when re-fitting, torque it down to about 34Nm (25ft lbs) and see how I get on. According to the internet that's about right for these bolts.

When torquing down bolts and fittings to the correct spec I often feel it's not enough, but it always is. For peace of mind I use security check paint (see below) across the heads of critical bolts and fittings after torquing down so I can keep on eye on things to make sure they are not coming loose. I use this stuff on the sump drain bolt 15Nm on the Zetec engine. On the gear box drain plug after an oil change, on nuts and bolts I have removed around the steering assembly when fitting a new steering rack gaiter. I also use it on the wire wheel nuts. I put a spot across the nut and wheel centre opposite the tyre valve so it is easy to find for a quick check. I also use it on the oil filter ½ to ¾ of a turn once seated, again does not seem enough but always is. If you look closely at the photo you can see the small orange spot. I will have to use a mirror to check the diff drain and fill plugs when the car is on the ground but that's no problem.

Regards Tony

Lorne not "Loam" actually. But I don't mind. I am called many things.

I am not sure why you would use the thicker yellow petrol-proof PTFE on plumbing jobs, but I confess to have done if it is nearer at hand. I have not had the problems you speak of. The tape has become a standard in many modern automobile cultures. The residual bits, if any, can be removed with a needle or any abrasive. However, in my experience and logically, the only key is not to cover the first two threads and wrap in the right direction. Assuming a bit of common sense, mechanics is not the mysterious black art we are brought up to believe it is. Trads are the most susceptible to well-advised owner interaction I have ever come across. But stay cautious. Caution and patience are the best tools in your kit.

Good luck Zack!