Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Rear Axle oil change

Hi Lorne
Apologies for getting your name wrong. I first used the yellow tape a number of years ago when constructing my compressed air system. As I'm sure you know for gas especially at pressure the white stuff just doesn't cut it. As you say the yellow tape is thicker and probably due to my ham-fistedness I just find it easier to use hence using it for plumbing. You are correct about using a needle to remove the old stuff, that's exactly what I do. Its just the thought of trying to do that without the ability to see what you are doing due to restricted access. Anyway Hey-ho if what I do fails I may end up using the tape after all. As always many thanks for your replies I value your inputs.

Regards Tony

Yes the yellow PTFE tape was Introduced as natural gas degraded the standard offering. If I ever use it on a sump or diff fittings I'm happy with the standard stuff, never had a leak personally.So let's pick up a couple of issues you raised about torquing things up! Firstly I have rarely seen any mechanic use a torque wrench when doing these procedures, Yes I can achieve a satisfactory result through experience but I have seen so many leaning on the blooooody wrench like it's the Jesus nut on a helicopter rotor head. The torque settings are listed to actually stop the monkey over tightening them and not only causing tear out of the threads but stretching them. This is what causes them to leak! So in a nutshell..... tight is tight and too tight is bust! But the bust here happens sequentially and weakens every time it's overtightened. If you have a problem with leakage try applying the PTFE tape as a strand and following it into the threads. Start with a couple of spins of the tape around you finger then hold it onto the fitting and follow it into the threads, the tape will stay as a strand as you do this. This fills the threads more fully without making it difficult to start and it screws in keeping the PTFE where you want it for best effect.

Fortunately the alloy threads on the plug are generally softer than the G/box thread as the box tends to be made from a different form of alloy but if replacing the plug be cautious as a new and correct thread profile can cause more damage to a distorted thread in the box.

Now oil filters, when we are talking about spin on cartridges, Clean the mounting face from any debris or old oil after removing. Lubricate lightly the rubber sealing ring face fully around the whole face and tighten it by hand only! Some spin on types have a non fixed sealing ring, if this is the case lubricate both sides to prevent distortion and finally make sure the old seal isn't still attached/stuck to the housing. You'd be surprised at how many of those I've seen!
if a filter housing type is used replace the seal or O ring as required and yes lubricate it.

Absolutely no problem on the name, Zack! And thank you for your courteous reply..[do you have Canadian DNA? ] I have never tried these tapes on a "gas" fitting (I am assuming you mean "gas" in the correct sense and not petrol). But my petrol lines, since my 2002 trad mishap, are all not tapered now. I use AN fittings and SS PTFE (incapable of melting/burning) or detaching. My wife disliked having her headgear.crisped. As you will likely agree, professional mechanics (necessarily time-sensitive and cost competitive) and car manufacturers/designers (mass production cost-sensitive) have different priorities and methods than amateurs do. Amateurs have the time to be safer and cover their lack of skill and buying for one car only is less onerous than buying for a 1000 a year. Reservations about amateur work are unwarranted, assuming they are monitored by others.

I feel the same about your inputs. A collegiate format is safest in a public forum and that requires reactive dialogue so TY

Lorne

I do similar sewin when tightening spin on oil filters. Routine I use is to remove the filters rubber seal and lightly lube with engine oil both sides of seal before replacing. I then fill the filter with clean engine oil to a level commensurate with the angle it sits at - halfway if horizontal, full if hanging down - this to minimise time it takes for oil presure to build. I have seen them located inverted but this is rare. The filter is then quickly spun on until oil seal is felt to be touching the smooth clean surface of its mounting and just starting to compress. Using a cloth to gain grip its then tightened a further ¾ of turn by hand and no less. This will ensure it can be unscrewed by hand with help of a cloth at next oil change - and no it will not come loose. A favourite trick of mechanics is to use a strap wrench to nip it up (fearing perceived consequences if it loosens in use) requiring use of one later to remove - not necessary.

Yes Richard, so many are cranked up so tight that you have difficulty in removing them without destroying them and making a horrible and unnecessary mess. I find the strap wrench the best option for removing them even when too tight. You will get some distortion but it won't rip it open. It rarely doesn't get enough grip but if that does happen then use an inspection glove under the strap, doesn't have to fully surround the filter, just use the width of the glove.

If you really can't remove one and its damaged, don't drive around with it thinking its ok as the distortion will have stuffed the pressure release valve and it won't be filtering anything. Rather, punch a hole in the bottom or lowest part and drain out. Then using side cutters trim around the canister about an inch from the seal and pull off the outer can and paper cartridge. you will be left with the central steel support. Some filters it just pops off quite easily but if fixed and part of the threaded central mount pack the central section with a piece of rag and tape over the holes in the upper mount and cut it off, I always use a hacksaw, some use grinders! Point of note here! DON'T MAKE YOUR CUT TO CLOSE TO THE TOP AS THE MOUNTING THREADS ARE LONGER THAN YOU MIGHT THINK! When at this point you can see the top of the cartridge where it screws to the housing. You will see that it has a series of holes around the central hole in what is quite a strong mounting plate. The idea now is to use or make a simple sprocket holding tool. I made mine from gable end roof ties with two small fixed bolts, one in each arm and then two free nuts so I can adjust the depth the bolts stick into the filter housing..... you don't want to go in to deeply and damage the housing. If you can't picture what I am describing look up sprocket tools and all will be clear. It is surprising how easily this method removes that stuck mounting plate. Only once have I had to make something more elaborate and that was because I needed to reach a depth of 6". Here I used a Land Rover wheel hub socket and an old hub nut with two pins welded to it. It was actually so tight that it started to bend the pins so I added a third and off it popped!

Not trying to preach to anyone here but hope it might help someone one day!

Richard Sewin

Reference fitting and tightening a new oil filter. You both describe pretty much exactly the method I use. I resist the temptation of further tightening with a strap, despite due to my inexperience, feeling it's not tight enough. Hence the security paint blob for my peace of mind. As it turns out you both wont be surprised to hear that it never comes loose and is easy to remove next time round.

This feeling of not tight enough, again due to inexperience, is why I generally resort to using a torque wrench. But still I'm learning and perhaps one day I might not need to.

Incidently I don't know If it's true but I once heard or read that Rolls-Royce with their aero engines don't use torque values. They specify tightness by measuring bolt or stud stretch length.

Regards Tony

Don't worry Tony, you'll soon find that feeling of NOT TIGHT ENOUGH will change to ' my god who fitted this'

Hi All

Got round to changing the rear axel oil today. I used Castrol Transmax Limited Slip 75W – 140 even though the axel is not limited slip I was assured it would be o.k. It took just over 1.5 ltrs.

The filler plug is not an Allen key or Torx type but is a standard hex head with 30mm across the flats and has a thick plastic sealing washer that I have reused.

A 15mm metric spanner fits the axel drain plug. It has the same thread diameter as the engine sump drain plug which is a Ford 1.8 silver top Zetec I decided to use the same sealing arrangement when re-installing the axel drain plug that is a M14 Dowty washer. I always replace this washer when changing the engine oil so I keep a few in stock. You can get them from the link below


https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/PARENT105

Regards Tony

Exactly my approach over the past 59k miles and no issues arising.