Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Removing Spinners

Excellent! I have added them to GoMoG. Thank you. All of these should achieve the required torque and dangerously using a hammer on expensive wheels.

That wooden adapter will NOT make that torque with you destroying it. Test your method of torquing at a nearby machine shop or automobile garage? Common sense and takes 5 minutes. However, you will need a TBM adapter fr the torque wrench.

L.

The lead mallet is the only way to go with a 4/4 Sport as this Centenary model was MMC’S admission that they had lost their way.with heated seats power steering air conditioning etc.

No longer a lightweight sporty car, so at 800Kgs and 115bhp fun and litheness is restored - great models and inmho the best of all trads.
This from a dyed in the wool Plus 8 man of over 34 years…..

I have always used a big copper mallet directly on my twin-eared spinners, that's exactly why they were introduced a century or more ago.

I've never believed that a car should be kept in perfect condition, a car is a machine to be enjoyed and used, proudly wearing the patina of its life as evidence. Especially in this day and age, it won't be long before they can't be used wherever we want, we won't be able to afford the petrol, and they won't be worth anything if we want to sell them. Let's just crack on and rag them.

Sometimes it’s best to avoid those lanes Tim this time of the year, they’re muck spreading around here too.

Toad of Toad Hall in the shite again

I remember this shot on Facebook taken from an VSCC event about 10 years ago now and it sums up the spirit of these competitors, they make M3W pilots look like a bunch of nancies let alone topless four wheelers.

I'm with Tim, I'm not a polisher, if it's dirty......so what.....🤷🏻‍♂️😁
Use them while you can.....!!!!!!!!
I've not quite made it to the level of sh1te on the car in the photo yet though.......😂

🇬🇧🇬🇧

Tim? Have you ever measured the torque that produces?

Lorne

Impossible to measure, but capable of estimation. A 1kg hammer moving at 10m/sec hitting with an impact sufficient to move the spinner 10mm (or .01m) will have KE of 500J so applying 50 Newtons at say .1m from the centre of the wheel indicates an applied torque of 5Nm. As the spinner gets tighter the movement becomes less, increasing the applied torque.

A final blow which moves the spinner just 1mm would give a torque of 50nm.

Actual hammer blows in the real world are likely to be considerably less energetic, more in the region of 3m/sec at a guess, and nobody continues to smack away at a spinner once it's tight and no longer moving.

I've had my car 26 years, it's done just over 130k miles and the wheel splines are in fine condition so I'm perfectly happy with my technique.

Spot on Lorne, They have to be tight enough to not self tighten further, This gives a predictable pressure to release them! But also protects the splines of both elements. And it's the length of bar that gives consistency of applied torque, Mainly to the maker but will achieve fairly similar for most normal users. I have a six hundred mm torque wrench. the same length almost that I fashioned my home made spanner to. I also have Lionel's socket and this was how I found the length I needed to apply the torque I decided I wished to use, Not fair to share this I think as It's my choice but I'm sure if you try something 600mm long you will find your choice too.

Just a point of interest: I don't have a limited slip diff and find that the rear right wheel is the culprit for self tightening.

This was mine, only used mainly for undoing, I only nipped them when tightening