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Good evening

I'm having massive issues removing my sump plug as previously it has been siliconed and possibly thread sealed, so am going to resort to using an impact driver. Just in case I break the alloy cast sump pan, does anyone know exactly which pan was used on these cars as looking online, there are many different pans on the Duratec engine? Also, is it an easy job to remove/refit the pan or is it one of those that also fits between the bell housing and engine?

Thanks
Jon

Last edited by Topline123; 16/06/26 07:03 PM.

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Have you considered one of those suction devices that go down the dipstick hole ? Believe many stealers use them to save time and effort.

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I’m sure Morgan OEM parts are available but I’ve found these folks have very good cast alloy parts for Cam Covers. Water Rails and Sump’s (wet, wet on a canted over engine and dry).

https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/index-duratec-r.asp?categoryID=1


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Originally Posted by Topline123
Good evening

I'm having massive issues removing my sump plug as previously it has been siliconed and possibly thread sealed, so am going to resort to using an impact driver. Just in case I break the alloy cast sump pan, does anyone know exactly which pan was used on these cars as looking online, there are many different pans on the Duratec engine? Also, is it an easy job to remove/refit the pan or is it one of those that also fits between the bell housing and engine?

Thanks
Jon
Understand you needing a back up.
Just to say that my sump plug became rounded and wouldn’t budge but I used one of those swirl sockets and it came off with no trouble. In your case, maybe a bit of a warm up first may help things along.


Doug
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Yes, firstly drain the sump you don't want to shatter a huge hole in it when full of oil. You can drain it with a tube as already stated via the dip stick hole (not on your BMW though... it has no dip stick!) just buy the proper vacuum tool! try the Chinese sites and they are well cheap and identical as they are all made there! Next buy a set of nut extractors you tap them on with a hammer and they tighten themselves...... remember though the sump plug is steel and the sump alloy so don't go smashing it on! Gently heat the sump area around the the plug trying not to heat the plug and then go for an undo!

You say it's siliconed.... do you know why, and what makes you think in might be glued' locked or whatever in place?

Impact driver ok if the plug is still patent but use a six point socket. but again drain the oil first! If the plug is to far gone then the nut extractor will work best.

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Done it!!!

I used the impact driver on the lowest setting and ithe bolt came away without any issues. Luckily there was no Loctite type thread sealer present. The copper washer had marks on it which suggest it had been reused previously, hence the silicon.


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Pleased you got sorted with minimal fuss!


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A tale of wonder.......
A fitter in a factory I worked at did the following.
He had welded his sump plug previously. Oil change? Simple. Drill several holes (3mm) to drain the sump. Plug them all with blind rivets. Refill with oil.
On a par with the "new rad" he built by looping copper tube into a matrix shape then concocted couplings to fit the hoses.
Nobody wanted him doing jobs.... he was doing jobs in the engineering dept only, under watchfull eyes.
His car did actually run. We reckon he was trained in an African village or Cuba.


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Good news toppline and it makes sense ! get the correct alloy washer as it could have been a little electrolytic corrosion between the copper washer and the alloy sump !


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