Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing My continuing GDI saga, and its not good news.

Are you talking of a previous GDI you owned Jon?

Did you check the pump connector wires Dave?

They can fracture

I recall reading somewhere Rog a connector at the rear carrying white/purple fuel feed is under spec'd leading to high resistance at pins and connector melting. The matching wire one in your pic doesn't look too healthy.

The wires were sound as far as I could establish Rog. From memory the outer two are pump feed/earth, 7and the inner two for the level float.

Maybe it's illegal Richard but only dealers can access the fault codes. My engine light has never lit, except the one time I did a start with something disconnected, but an overnight with the battery disconnected reset the light

Jon came over to try his readers and none connected.

I understand your reasoning and share your frustration Dave at sending the car to BHM. Without fault reporting you are working blind and that for me would be intolerable on a modern DBW car. I'm also a little concerned that yourself and other GDI owners could be driving with an engine in potentially dangerous condition without any fault reporting!

No consolation but a new accelerator pedal sensor appears to have fixed my Roadsters random but increasingly regular severe throttle response issue causing misfire, which corrected itself every time with engine off for three minutes. There is a barely perceptible improvement of gentle power take up when driving in built up areas, when fault nearly always appeared. I'm guessing the twin potentiometers on old sensor had the equivalent of a scratchy volume control pot (however rare) as fault always triggered the same P2135 voltage correlation error code but with no freeze frame data recorded.

Yes, and unless MMC allow access, going forward there will be more GDI issues as the electrics age. Even assuming that parts remain available. I wonder if my problem is the accelerator pedal, time will tell.

The elephant in the room of course is the CX timebomb. A much more complex car. Morgan with a reputation for slow delivery of parts. And becoming very reliant on dealer attention. Combine this with aging electrics, and questionable availability of parts and you get a situation which I would not welcome.

I also think that if you have to sacrifice the AR flash to get through the MoT, it should be available again, either free, or discounted. Pigs might fly of course!

Well, it is about the only thing left!

My car has a completely different engine (GM Ecotec VVTi), a completely different ECU (MBE) and a completely different map from yours, but the only time I have ever had a problem with the car was shortly after the conversion was installed and the symptoms were exactly as you described:


The car would run ok but had no power, wouldn't pull anything over a tickover. Turned out that one of the new fuses fitted with the ECU and engine loom had blown from being under-specced, and it was the one protecting the fly-by-wire throttle circuit. My engine wasn't getting a valid throttle position signal so defaulted to a limp mode. Went from a 10A to a 15A fuse and I haven't had any further problem in the last 18 years.

If this turns out to be a fuse, I will be gutted!

Sometimes knowing 'too much' can cost a lot of money. Not long before I sold my MGV8, so early 2000s, I had a clicking starter. Not unheard of because the solenoid gets baked by the exhaust. I fitted a new solenoid, and no change. So it must be the starter motor. A new starter motor made no difference. Checked the cables and all OK, as I thought. So next was a new battery, or actually two x6v. No difference.

Now I'm struggling. Final throw of the dice, another check on the cable runs. The 6v batteries were under the back seat so an extra cable between the two but that wasn't the problem. The problem was a hairline crack in the battery positive terminal, which was a wrap around with one bolt through, and nipping that up, showed the crack. It cost a terminal to fix, but I paid for two batteries, a solenoid and a starter motor.