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Joined: Aug 2021
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2020 Door striker plate replacement.
Replaced the drivers side door lock striker plate located on the back pillar this morning, as the rubber on the ramp buffer section had deteriorated from the heat in France.
These are reported to be the same on the Plus Six and Plus Four.. Part numbers 1/6000511 and 1/6000512

Straight forward as its retained by two countersunk Allan screws, however, if you are ever thinking of replacing the complete striker plate as I did, then be aware that the retaining nuts/plate on the other side of the door pillar is not retained in place and drops away if both screws are completely removed at the same time. Its better to remove one screw, turn the striker plate to expose the nut plates thread, reinsert one screw a few threads to retain the nut plate and then remove the last screw with the striker plate and reverse of this for reassembly. If the plate does drop away the inner trim screws and the screw for the soft top release latch must be removed to allow the trim to move enough to find the plate.
The door striker plate adjusts easily, I marked the location of the old plate with a pencil line before removal to get me back in the ball park for closing. Used a very small amount of clear silicon grease on latch and the rubber buffer slider.
Just one other point, if you ever want to just replace the rubber buffer ramp on the striker plate, then these are held in position by two small Philips head screws from under the striker plate and can be replaced without removing the entire plate.. the catch is Morgan do not supply them, you have to purchase the complete plate.. there are some available on the Web, but no guarantee of fitting, plus the price was the same as buying a complete plate assembly from Morgan.

Door hinge screws.
I normally check these once a year, however, while the doors were open and I was in potter mode I checked them all, all were loose on door and pillar!, they tightened between 1/4 to 1/3rd turn per screw. Maybe this is because of the long heat conditions?? The doors do close better now..

Soft top release handle.. This appears to be the same or very very similar to the early Plus Six and Four inner door lock release handle.. the handles rod attaches to the release cable.. no sign of any lubrication, so lubricated


Dave
Plus Six "Squeak"
Roadster departed.
1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
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Dave, with all this tightening, lubrication and fettling, that Plus Six will be so sorted, you'll have to rename "Squeak" to something quieter laugh2


Jon M
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I wish Jon, I seem to track down the squeaks each year and then another pops up, we are just over a mile from the main road and the lane is in a poor state, so the poor old Six gets well rattled.. Also I am so used to checking over my British motorbikes, I am sort of pre programmed to check things..


Dave
Plus Six "Squeak"
Roadster departed.
1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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L - Learner Plates On
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Every drive's a test drive!


Plus Six
'75 Commando 850
'76 CB750K6
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J
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J
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Originally Posted by Davetherave
I wish Jon, I seem to track down the squeaks each year and then another pops up, we are just over a mile from the main road and the lane is in a poor state, so the poor old Six gets well rattled.. Also I am so used to checking over my British motorbikes, I am sort of pre programmed to check things..


Well at least your considtent in your approach whether it be bikes or car..........mainly because they are British built!!!!!

I never remember spending so much time on my Japanese bikes and car, they just went and went and went....just no mechanical drama, electric start just put fuel in and go.....even held out for the electric start Norton 850..........just couldn't deal with the tempermental kick start procedures, life is just too short.


22 Plus Four KIMI
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I have the electric mk3 Norton Commando. Needs an upgraded starter (from Harley, just bolt on), a more robust sprag bearing from Andover Norton and a battery tender in the garage. Works a treat.


Plus Six
'75 Commando 850
'76 CB750K6
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I had the Mk 2 850 interstate Commando.. it was a nice bike to ride, completely rebuilt it, our local MOT tester never could get his head around the isolastic setup.. even though it was bang on..

I have a 1973 Triumph 750 Tiger that I was thinking of converting to a new electric start system, but not moving fast on this, as apart from the cost, the crankcase has to be machined for the starter to gain access into the primary drive and its a very early 750 engine, so not happy about boring a hole in it... I have all the bits of a second hand electric start for the 750 bonnie, but it works on the cam gear side and they were known to stuff the intermediate gear shaft where it enters the crankcase, so again, not doing anything yet. I can still kick start the engines..so maybe thats the better bet.. innocent


Dave
Plus Six "Squeak"
Roadster departed.
1936 BSA Empire Star Q8. 1935 BSA W7-35. 1938 BSA M20
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I've always fancied the Truimph T160 Trident with the electric start.......not that I have problems with kick starting, just often the phaff of the starting procedures which vary some much from bike to bike, but an electric start is so consistent, just press the start button.Well the Japanses electric starters were more reliable and less of an afterthought as on the Truimphs and Nortons and therefore as a result often found more wanting.

Last edited by JohnHarris; 28/07/26 05:38 PM.

22 Plus Four KIMI
12 Plus 4 Sport OZZY
08 Roadster FELIX
06 4/4 70th LOKI
77 4/4 SEAMUS
85 4/4 MOLLY

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