Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Delay to bring up oil pressure ( 2006 +4 )

When I start the engine it takes about 5 sec. to bring up oil pressure to a decent level (3-4 bar when cold).

Never really measured the time before but I have the feeling this is a new symptom. All my other cars I had (non-Morgans) were much faster to bring pressure up, usually already during cranking.

Yes, there is enough oil in the sump and the delay varies only a litte if the car stood for a week or a minute.

Should I replace the oil pump or is there anything else preventing pressure coming up immediately ? (48k Miles on the clock)

Any hints/ideas much appreciated !

Peter

Duff oil pressure sender unit is much more likely the cause

I’d put the lead to the sender to earth and see if the gauge moves smoothly across the range, should go zero to max. If so I’d guess at sender unit and it’s the cheapest and quickest possible solution.

I would check the sender first. It could also be a sticking PRV staying slightly open on shutting down the car I guess.
Is it always the same 5 secs? By that I mean if you leave the car a few days is it the same as restarting the car after say 15 seconds? If it is different it could be oild draining back via the pump.

I would say it is roughly the same when left for a few days of for a minute but I have not (yet) tried 15 secs. but a couple of seconds off and then restarted again. In this case it takes maybe 2 secs. to bring pressure up again. Still not really quick.

Need to investigate, but first I need to obtain a Workshop Manual for the Duratec 2.0, Are there any recommended sources ?

Thanks for all the feedback.
Peter

The topic of low oil pressure as the possible result of a partially stuck PRV intrigues me somewhat. I guess my first question in such a scenario would be related to the actual pressure that the valve is set to begin to lift at...?

As best I understand it that pressure setting may be to save causing gasket leakage...?

I also suspect, though could be entirely incorrect, other than if one revs a cold engine higher up the rev range it may be unlikely that the valve might ever lift..?

It seems that in order to increase efficiency that modern engine oils may be a lot thinner than they once were, thus paying attention to ensure the correct grade relative to the engine spec is best considered..?

There was discussion quite recently of a +8 which failed to build pressure after lay up, requiring the oil pump gears to be filled with grease to reduce the wear within which is designed to make up for wear in the pump and increase it`s lift/suck potential, in order to raise oil initially from the sump, and once performed normal operation was restored...Quite how that situation might work out long term...?

I have digressed... Yup unless you have been revving the nuts off your engine or changed the oil recently or put in a dodgy oil filter that is collapsing internally in usage, or, or, or.... I hope it turns out to be a wiring connection or sender issue...Fingers crossed..

Peter, Firstly the workshop manual. The Ford Mondeo 2003-07 is the engine option you need. cheap second hand on eBay.

Do you get your car serviced or do it yourself... why do I ask, well I think you'll find that Morgan recommend 5W-40 oil in the 2.0lt Ford Duratec in the Morgan yet Ford standard is for 5W-30. Could it be that you have previously been using the 30 summer element yet last service the Morgan correct spec 40 oil was used. The 40 grade is quite a bit thicker than the 30 and this would show a slower response especially when cold.

just a little on oil now: 5W. is the winter element ensuring that good lubrication is provided when everything is cold and the 30 or 40 is the grade of oil that provides what the manufacturer deems best to provide engine protection. So an 0W-16 oil is like water and 20-50 oil most suited to old classics and is pretty damn thick by today's standards. I'll not go into things too greatly as I can sense some eyelids drooping! However Morgan choose 40 grade as they assume the car will get worked hard and this will protect the engine more when very hot and stressed.
So, Ford say will chose 30 grade across their range as the oil will produce enough lubrication protection to fulfil their warranty period and an acceptable life yet return the best fuel returns to keep their car competitive. So if you use a 40 grade you are greatly reducing metal to metal contact for much longer before the oil starts to break down.

If you follow this rule here, you will be fine when choosing the oil you wish to use in protecting your engine. If it states you should use 5W-30 grade oil then never mess with the first or winter grade ie. the 5W element. If you wish to protect your engine way better then select the 40 grade for all year running. Quite honestly in a Performance car, and yes the 2.0lt Duratec you have fitted is a performance engine then the difference in performance is not really noticeable . And lastly change your oil regularly. Again manufacturers stretch the service intervals for longer than really desirable to make their car running costs cheaper and more convenient than the competition... doesn't make it right though! I change my oil at 5000 miles or in the case of the Morgan annually as I never usually exceed 3500 miles. once you have heated your new oil to running temperature you are on a 12 month countdown regardless of mileage as the oil has already started to change its molecular structure. And let's be honest here, an oil change is a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild! The plus 8 Morgan is best to have 3500 mile changes!

You might ask why the hand book can often give quite a range of suitable oils. This is to cover different areas in the world and if not stated always work from the oil which is preferred in your supplied hand book as the oil grade of choice.