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Joined: Oct 2007
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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On mine (2005 4/4) the tabs are blocks that fit very closely into rectangular holes in the sliding panel. I know because one came off the very first day I had it (bought used in 2007) as I slid the window open, which was very stiff! The block has a very shallow rebate cut into it, the same depth as the sidescreen material - all very high precision - so it pushes in but won't go through. I debated how to glue it in without making a mess.

I didn't want to use ordinary thin superglue as it would run and mar the perspex. After much pondering, in the end I used "Serious Glue" (EvoStik) which is a thick cyanoacrylate which dries water-clear, and spread the thinnest possible layer on the rebate then pushed it home. The repair is invisible and still in place 5 years later. I fully expected to have to do the same with the other side but luckily it hasn't come off. Mind you I have "eased" the sliding screens by using dry silicone spray (3-in-1 brand) in the grooves.

I think Serious Glue would also be ideal for gluing a conventional block directly onto a sidescreen without a hole, as the glue line has remained completely clear without any yellowing or crazing.

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L - Learner Plates On
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Just as nputtic above my side screens have the cut out and rebate, I used super glue very sparingly, I think it looks ok - but I am not the fussyest.
Tony

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John V6 Offline OP
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I have just got around to using the Renovo as I am driving down to Devon next weekend to see my Mum & the meet Frank 4 X 4 for a bit of his epic drive.

I am amazed by the difference this stuff makes to the smaller scratches.


JohnV6
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Be careful on the sidescreens. Mine appear to have an acrylic lacquer which provides the hard wearing finish. I can see this because there is a small chip on one piece where the coating has come off. So anything too abrasive will remove this finish.


DaveW
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On the new ones I have cut myselt twice on the sharp edge of the finger tab. (don't know what else to call it) I am going to have to make a protective shield with a small rectangular hole and file off the sharp edges.


Peter

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Or, wear a thimble? laugh2


Graham (G4FUJ)

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On my elbow?


Peter

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John V6 Offline OP
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You could try this though MEK is a nasty chemical.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/screens.htm

N.B. A note from Lenn Nelsen June 2007 A jigsaw will work if you have BOTH side taped and go very slowly. Finish the edges like a fine paint job. Start with coarse and go to finer sandpaper/emory cloth. The pro trick is in the final finishing. Use a product called M.E.K. ( Methyl Ethyl Ketone). Put some on a cotton ball and, run the cottonball gently on the edges of the lexan. Hold the lexan
piece "up" so if you have any drips it will run to the floor or over your hand. This will make the edge as smooth as a baby's bottom. This stuff melts the lexan, so don't get any drips on your finished product or you'll be sorely sorry. It does, though, give you a professional edge. Even though it is simple, I suggest practice on a spare piece before you go to the final finishing.


JohnV6
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Ahhh, when driving...
I thought it was a problem when lowering/raising the hood...
Must wake up laugh2


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
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Originally Posted By John +4
You could try this though MEK is a nasty chemical.


A buffing wheel does the same without chemicals.


1967 4/4 1500 Comp.
1935 Super Sports Barrelback
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