Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - +4 GDI Air Temps

Looking at 2 Mods this winter.
1. Heat Shielding the Air intake
2. Adding a Shutoff or Bypass to the Heater Matrix.

So thought I'd take some measurements before starting to confirm they are required and use as a baseline for comparison later.

Took the measurements today and thought I'd share the results.

This was done with the Car NOT moving simulating being stuck in traffic. I purchased 3x Temp Sensors to measure different points apart from the Engine Intake which is from OBDII.



The Cabin is coolest if you never use the Heater Fan and air never goes via the hot element, I'll even make sure the vents are closed..
The heater Matrix adds 4 to 5 degrees to the air temperature.
The Air into the Cabin is 12-15 degrees more than Ambient.
The Heater Matrix entry gets quite Hot compared to Ambient.

There is a gap in the foam, that goes round the Heater Matrix entry, at the front where the hot engine bay air could get in, I think I'll fix that 1st and re-run test. If that can be improved a heater shutoff/bypass will be next but there's no point if I can't reduce the entry temp.

Have shelved the Air Intake heat shielding for now, might be better to find a cooler location for the front of the pipe. Also need to do the test while driving.

Developing a viable and improved cold air intake has been on the agenda for some time.

No drilling into, cutting or irreversibly modifying existing components on the car was a prime consideration. Consequently if the mods were of no discernible benefit, all items could be removed and the intake returned to standard.

At speed, a strong flow of cool air enters the cowl grill and this was the favoured entry point. The louvres in the side of the bonnet were considered too small to be effective and fitting a large side intake cowl would involve cutting the bonnet. A low level front entry point was considered impractical due to the inner wing and the steering/suspension components obstructing a smooth duct passage.

A large touring plaque had previously been tied to the cowl front without adverse heating effects, and consequently an aluminium plate has now been fixed in front of the radiator to deflect cool air between the top of the radiator and the underside of the cowl. This cool air will be channelled into a duct leading to the air filter box. The greater the road speed, the greater the air box should become pressurised. So long as there is a fast air flow, the air in the duct should not heat up appreciably from the presence of the radiator and exhaust beneath. It may be necessary to vent the air box, but that is for the future.







Behind the cowl about 100mm beneath the top of the radiator on each side is an M6 inner wing fixing bolt. These bolts were used to secure aluminium brackets. A close fit to the side of the inner wing and a thin rubber pad acting as gasket prevents bracket rotation about the bolt. The brackets are curved to match the curvature of the inner wing. An aluminium deflector plate was then cut and secured to each bracket via a pair of M5 bolts at each side.


Two types of air duct intake will be assessed. One is a closed end tube with large side holes and the other is a tube cut at an angle to scoop air into the duct. A bespoke U- shaped duct bracket has been fabricated and fixed using the standard fixings. The duct has an aluminium ring at the air box end and is a push fit into both the air box spigot and the U-bracket. Entire duct removal takes no more than a few seconds.





Currently waiting for the weather to cheer up before road testing and a track day at the end of February should deliver a verdict on these mods.