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SORN
by OldSkrote - 31/07/25 02:07 PM
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by Rex_tulips - 30/07/25 07:59 PM
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Forums34
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Aug 24th, 2023
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Couple of points: The existing vertical rectifier tab normally needs removal or at least half of it - depends on what/how the factory (or dealer) had welded in place - otherwise it fouls the upper rubber part. Rectifier position - the stock wiring will fit if the rectifier is mounted on the body as per Bunny instructions - but if using the std MMC rectifier then you need to adapt the plate and get rid of the bobbins so it mounts near flush to bodywork. Only cause for concern when mounting the rectifier to the bottom engine mount bracket as you have, is that it will still vibrate a little more than direct chassis fix and as we all know vibrations kill these rectifiers. Therefore by taking the vibrations out of the equation then the rectifiers will hopefully last longer, hence why all the mounts fitted by me are mounted to the body. Unless your a Euro 4 car - upgrade rectifier to HD version if funds allow. Also - the alloy spacers - regardless of engine height - you need to try different amounts either side - the rear cylinder side will always need 1 x as a minimum - the other side rarely. Check clearance on rear cylinder/frame - steering rack/chassis and starter motor/tunnel. Every chassis has different measurements  Glad to see you notice the difference in driving experience as everyone who has had it fitted makes the same remarks. Big thanks to Paul Rand (ex 5 speeder and ex S3 owner) who designed and developed this kit 4/5 years ago and then when I fitted it to mine 2/3 years ago, I was so impressed with the vibration reduction that thought it would be good to make it available to a much wider audience, so in association with Paul, I made a few tweaks to the design for ease of installation and now its a highly recommended upgrade fitted to numerous m3w's in EU, UK and now USA  Thanks - indeed - I did need to trim the vertical regulator mount tab - it was tight against the new mount (see pic). A bit of time with a cut-off wheel and now corrected! As is said, anything worth doing is worth doing 2 or 3 times :-) ![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2025/07/24/Rough-trim-of-side-regulator-mounting-bracket.jpg) On the spacers, In checking, my rear (right) cylinder was pretty close to the chassis, although didn't seem to be hitting. But I installed one spacer to get a bit more room. However, the stud at the top of the mount isn't long enough to catch the nylon locking part of the nut, and it certainly doesn't have enough threads to install two spacers. A bit of blue Loctite and we're OK with one installed. Perhaps this run of mounts has a shorter top stud for some reason? ![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2025/07/24/Shim-installed-righ-side.jpg) Significant improvement - worth it in my opinion!
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Perhaps this run of mounts has a shorter top stud for some reason? -
No - its a standard production part so they all come with same length studs. You can try shallow Nyloc nuts and of course lose the washer under the nut if needed (as per the rest of the MMC build..) or use a serrated flange nut?
Without a spacer washer that side it is possible for the cylinder to tap the frame cornering to the left.
Its a bit of trial and error for clearance - as like I have said before - the chassis are all different.
Last edited by Stevo666; 25/07/25 05:57 AM. Reason: Grammar
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1 member likes this:
truckin-on |
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Really? Please tell me more! I'd love to get these mounts, and Ohlins, and do the Beasley conversion... PM sent
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Stevo: I would also like to install the M3W Services motor mounts. If possible, kindly send me information.
Thank you.
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1 member likes this:
Stevo666 |
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These do sound like a nice upgrade. Looks like I need to add these to the list of items to do when the Bleazey upgrade is done.
Craig - Texas, USA
2021 M3W
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Given the hassle of getting the standard engine mounts out and then back in while doing the Bleazey Centa work, our experience would suggest that installing the new engine mounts at the same time would be worthwhile ...
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Given the hassle of getting the standard engine mounts out and then back in while doing the Bleazey Centa work, our experience would suggest that installing the new engine mounts at the same time would be worthwhile ... Totally agree - engine-out, would be a walk in the park compared to installing them around the in-place engine. I would venture to guess that it would make engine remove/install significantly easier in the future also.
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Totally agree - engine-out, would be a walk in the park compared to installing them around the in-place engine. I would venture to guess that it would make engine remove/install significantly easier in the future also. It does make engine removal easier once these engine mounts have been fitted as you can leave both frame parts attached to their relevant mountings - only the rubber damper part needs to be removed.
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