Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - Dead Battery

Me again.
So, there I was using a trip to Sainsburys as an excuse to drive the Mog with the hood & sidescreens up - very impressed, very quiet, remarkably warm.

Filled up with petrol, twisted the key - CLICK - dead battery.

I had never looked to find the battery and was, erm, impressed at the faff it is to get to it.
By simply incredible good luck, an extremely nice man admiring the Mog understood the issue and just happened to have a Halfords digital jump start thing - size of a packet of Hamlet. But getting to the battery.
Eeeeek.

And of course I didn't have a screwdriver to undo the toolkit panel. Amazingly, another good samaritan appeared who DID - and that got the wooden panel under the toolkit off - only to discover that doesn't actually let you access the battery terminals.
And the screwdriver couldn't quite get at the screws in the metal access plate - not enough room behind the seat . . .

Samaritan #2 just happened to have a ratchet and phillips adapter - so eventually access was gained, the Halfords digital charger applied - nothing!
Samaritan No 1 also just happened to have a truck jump starter
And once THAT was connected, deep joy, the motor burst back into life - but stopped as soon as the charger was disconnected.
I discovered a bit more faith in humanity, because this chap then insisted I drive home with his charger connected and he'd pick it up tomorrow.


So just got back, have put the CTEK on charge, but I imagine the battery is probably screwed - it's probably the original and has therefore done OK to get to 11 years.
Thanks for reading thus far.
The exam question, please, is whether this is something I could reasonably do myself, or does it need to go into the dealer? I'm not sure if the battery can even be replaced without accessing from underneath on a ramp, and I'm certainly not sure how many Morgan Roadsters the local Battery company will have done.
Exam question 2 - is there a particular battery you'd recommend?
Exam question 3 - does depowering the Roadster cause any electronic issues?
I need a beer, in fact I need 3

That the engine cut as soon as you disconnected the charger could indicate a faulty alternator. Once the engine is running the alternator should provide enough charge to keep it going. I presume the cat started OK for your trip to Sainsburys. Put the battery on charge overnight and try to start the engine in the morning. If it starts OK check the battery voltage with the engine running about 1500 rpm, and again with the engine off. The battery volts with the engine running should be about 14 volts and 12 when not being charged.

Agreed the 3.7 Roadster has a modern engine with full monitoring already via CANBUS. Since the introduction of alternators over 50 years ago, ammeters have generally not been used with them due to their much higher output and an unnecessary extra link in the electrical chain. As with most vehicles fitted with such nowadays the alternator has external regulation performed by the powertrain controle module (PCM, but read ECU).

In essence if there was a fault with the alternator you would know about it. Note also although some modern cars require the ECU's alternator charge profile be reset after fitting a new battery, your Roadster doesn't.

Ben, since removal of the tool tray, be it factory or custom, is necessary or at least helpful when checking axle, rear suspension or handbrake cable, I found I was regulary removing wood screws. I could see the time coming when oversize ones would be needed so opted for threaded inserts to allow unlimited use. These have a large course outer thread that screws into an oversize hole in the wood, sitting flush when screwed fully home with hex key. This allows my custom tool tray to be held in with stainless M4 countersunk setscrews which also sit flush. Image links below.





Regarding punctures, I have had to replace a front wheel on my Morgan which had deflated almost completely overnight. This outside a hotel I was leaving, using factory jack and an MG spinner tool I carry.

Regarding spinners being stolen - almost zero likelihood I would have thought.

This is the 60 amp hour battery for your car Ben which I have bookmarked for mine when needed. I particularly recommend south Korean brand Hankook having used them in all my cars and also a half dozen large capacity ones in a narrowboat. I've never been let down or had to change one yet and the price is rarely beaten.

Battery Megastore seem to be cheaper than Tanya when delivery included and they offer price matching anyway. If the battery is 11 years old it will be screwed anyway, don't waste time just replace, they are consumables.

All true advice. battery designation is 075 with right facing + terminal.
Removal.... remove parcel shelf first then access panel on bulkhead. Neg lead off and tuck away then + lead. Lift and tip battery out through access panel.

Get battery from Tayna batteries on line, next day delivery. Yuasa good make , get the highest amp hour version you can... better cold cranking.

There was no need to faff about getting to the battery terminals to apply a jump start. Simply open the bonnet and you will see the heavy current cable connected to the starter solenoid, readily accessible. An earth connection to the chassis or engine block and you are in business.
My plus 4 has been running quite happily on a replacement Halfords 075 battery for the past 7 years.

As Jon says, I replaced my Plus 8 one (after 11 years) and it's accessible from the top if you are reasonably agile, I'm 74..

I replaced like for like @ 11 years it owed me nothing and never saw a battery charger but I use it throughout the year.

The radio memory will go as will the temporary fine mixture adjustments for the ECU but a few miles down the road and it will relearn.r

This was mine 68 quid delivered.

1, easy to do yourself, take out the parcel tray for better visibility, the battery will fit through the access plate hole with the seat pulled fully forward, disconnect the earth first
2, can't remember the ref Richard V6 will be along soon...
3, dropping the power doesn't cause issues with the 3.7

Checking alternator/battery with engine running.... multi meter set to volts (20v) if it has settings directly to the battery terminals. If you get dodgy readings check alternator connections, engine earth and battery connections. Round post batteries; often when they have been disconnected a few times the clamps close up and even though you think they are tight they are not. loosen the clamp bolt and prise open the clamp lugs then refit the clamp and give it a gentle tap down to seat it on the post.... now tighten normally. Use Vasaline/petroleum jelly to maintain a corrosion free terminal!

My experience of 'todays' batteries is that they fail without warning. They can be conditioned to death for years, and I got 13 years out of my Roadster original battery, before it went pop without warning. It went from normal to dead just like that.

So don't suspect the alternator until you fit a new battery, then see what happens.

A dead battery can stop a car, even with a good alternator - voice of experience with modern(ish) vehicle electronics.

The empty spaces.... there was never likely to have been a first aid kit on UK Trads. but maybe export markets sometimes needed one. The circular hole is said to be for a spare centrelock nut, but I've never tested the fit and it could not take one with ears anyway.

The tool tray can be upgraded either in wood or aluminium, but its a case of do it yourself.

Agree with Dave. Splash the cash.

@Richard V6 - Hankook is arriving tomorrow!

Ben I have design dwgs for an ali tool tray. Pm me your email if you want them.

carbuilder.com offer “Smiths” voltmeters and ammeters. For a perfect match, do check whether you need rounded bezels or v-shaped.

Note, on the 3.7's the alternator is controlled via the BCU which is quite a complex bit of electronics (read...expensive) I personally would not add an ammeter or voltmeter into any of these circuits as Roadsters have proven to be generally reliable on electrics and you wouldn't want to add complexity or fc-uk up the circuit boards within the BCU with spikes & backfeeds



^ This is what lies within the ££ magic box

Check your battery on a start.... when charged and showing green turn on the headlights, do they light up? if so try a start with them on, if they stay on look to starter motor and solenoid inc. their connections, clean and refit. if they go out battery is suspect. If the charge indicator now shows red suspect battery condition/failure.

if you want to carry a spinner, you should be thinking of two -- as you never know which side will need to be replaced. And why would it ? Maybe it's been nicked, or if it has simply unscrewed itself you have a big problem, and will probably be chasing a wheel down the road. As for "practicing" yes for goodness sake familiarise yourself with the procedure. Jacking the car up at either end isn't too easy, especialy if you're doing it on a dark night down a muddy country lane having run over glass bottle shards.....and you'll need a good jack, perhaps some axle stands if you don't want to risk crushing some part of your anatomy, a spanner/mallet or a purpose-designed tool and a breaker bar -- all much easier to do on your driveway than in my nightmare scenario above. Also when you first attempt to remove a wheel, I'd say expect some old coagulated grease clogging the splines to make the process challenging. How's your AA/RAC membership looking ??

I carry a square of timber as a jack base. Also remember that painted wire wheels grab the spinner a lot tighter than stainless. I never got my black wires off (2012 P4) at home without heat.

I carry a square of timber as a jack base. Also remember that painted wire wheels grab the spinner a lot tighter than stainless. I never got my black wires off (2012 P4) at home without heat.

Oh yes Graham!

I have the euro style fitted to mine as I have fabricated a spanner that is clipped to the spare wheel carrier rear vertical surface. Mine originally had the three eared spinners but I imagined a dark and stormy night on the moors and trying to get a wheel changed by torch light whilst flailing a hammer close to my super-formed wing and stainless wheel spokes with the torch held in my teeth! Naa! don't think so, so I went for the sensible option. Oh the spinners look great and If I'm the one who ever sells her I'll add the eye candy back on, not many have them and they are about £90 each!