One thing I would look out for is that the forward end of the silencer can is fastened with small Allen screws - a couple of them on one of my pipes were determined to work loose the first couple of times out, but have settled down since.
I have the same exhausts and get the same screw loosening issue.
As they are trying to take themselves apart , I thought I would do it to investigate whats going on and investigate the fact the baffles are very hot at each end but not in the middle.
The screws fit into blind holes in a substantial end piece to the baffle - no risk of loosing nuts inside etc and could be loctited up if preferred.
Inside the baffle is a long double ended db killer with a serious amount of thick dense wadding in the outer space. This is a one inch diameter tube with lots of serrations for the sound to leak into the wadding which surrounds it. The wadding fills the space between the central tube and the outer baffle tube.
The extra heat at the end is simply the baffle ends in direct contact with the baffle outer tube. The cooler center is where the wadding is.
I am experimenting with running without the original baffle and wadding ( way too loud ) and now with a single db killer at the end ( Much better ) . If I get fed up with it I can revert back to original as it all comes apart via those screws
