There are different ways of pulling the stub axle into position. Using a long top bolt is a very good way, but I've settled on my two threaded rod method. It doesn't need spring compressors and the only tricky part is locating the lower nut on the kingpin - because I prefer to get the top lube bolt started early. The only thing to watch is when the top of the stub meets the dust cover on the way up. It may need a bit of persuasion to slot inside, but on this occasion it went in easily.
So today I started on the nearside:
First those pesky pad retaining clips......I found a suitable sized drift, but because the pads had pushed out slightly the pins were stiff to get out.
IMG_5410 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Here you can see the lips over the edge of the disc:
IMG_5411 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
IMG_5413 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
I thought I could get away with retracting the pads without taking some fluid out of the M/Cyl.
But Bumble peed on the floor! Or rather on the rubber mat........
IMG_5415 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Ready for lowering:
IMG_5416 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Here's the disc and you can see that it doesn't have the extra bolts on this side because there is no sensor on this side.
IMG_5417 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
The kingpin was worse on this side than the other:
IMG_5418 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
IMG_5419 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Again, the first bush was a challenge to get out, even though I hacksawed four slots in it this time, but not quite far enough!
But the Mulfab tool made short work of the second bush.
IMG_5420 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Then the new bushes went in easily. First the lower:
IMG_5422 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
Then the upper:
IMG_5423 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
This photo shows how the lower valance and tray seals off the front of the car from road dirt:
IMG_5421 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
And finally, I painted the stub axle, ready for reaming tomorrow.
IMG_5424 by
David Wellings, on Flickr
