Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Deejay
Worst bit was getting the clevis pin in at the front due to tight access, and dropped it a few times into the chassis crossmember.

Nice work but did you have to lift the tunnel or is there a clever way of accessing the clevis pin from below? My outer is fractured and taped up so I guess I will be doing this at some point.

Never tried it from below as I haven’t got a lift and think the cross member may be in the way. Yes removed seats, prop shaft tunnel, gear knob, brake lever knob, leather from gearbox tunnel and propped gearbox tunnel up with wood block. (difficult to move at first until I realised that, as well as screws, it was stuck on the inside with a double sided sticky seal. Also could not remove completely as it has a couple of drain tubes running through the top.)
Just enough room to get a hand in. As well as the clevis pin, you also have to undo the locknut that holds the front end of the cable in place. Inside the prop tunnel were two plastic cable clamps and the seat belt warning wiring was also cable tied to the brake cable. Watch out for sharp edges everywhere!

Had a crawl underneath today for routine servicing and whilst there, I can see in fact, that the clevis pin is easily accessible from underneath. Also easy access to lube the brake lever pivots. So that looks like the best way to do it, though if you haven’t got a lift, it’s a bit of a squeeze on your back even with axle stands at full height.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900