So, for the last few weeks I've been running the car with the multi-plug to the driver's side window disconnected and the one to the passenger side connected and thus an opportunity to see if the issue with the fuse blowing is drivers side at least. This does appear to be the case as all the time I've been using the car in this set-up I've not had a single issue with the fuse going and the passenger window working as expected. The challenge now is to find the issue on the drivers side as IO cannot find any evidence of any wires that have rubbed and lost their sleeving to create a short. The ducting between the door and the body is completely intact and therefore unless two wires have both lost their sleeving inside the plastic ducting and are touching each other (which would be most unfortunate) there must be either:
1) A fault with the motor control unit for the drivers window which causes an reverse flow of current / short, OR
2) A wire shorting on the body somewhere between the entry to the chassis and fuse box.
On the plus side having just the passenger door plugged in and working does at least mean the radio comes on with the ignition now and and doesn't go off after one hour
As discussed earlier in this thread did you try increasing the value of the window control fuse to 10 amps Paul? You hinted you would try this but cannot see confirmation you did.
