Many thanks for that, much appreciated.
No thanks necessary, I enjoy intelligent debate, Frankly, I learn more from those with fewer prior planted misconceptions. Trad Morgans are very different from other cars. It is all due to the use of a vintage flexing frame, which has advantages for everyone save cookie cutter profit makers. That is precisely why this world tells us that stiff chassis are the ultimate IMHO.
I should clarify that the 4 seater Roadster rear suspension was easily overwhelmed with only front occupants, and bottomed out with rear passengers extremely easily.
Of course. Bad leaf springs degrade any trad a lot!. though I am far more familiar with 2 seaters than 4. 4 seaters are pretty touring cars. Button and I learned about them together. We couldn't figure a way to set up their suspension, money being no object. If you made them perfect for two, it they were not good for 4 passengers and vice versa. He final turned his into a 2 seater with a huge amount of storage space. That being said, 4 in a Morgan looks like it a blast. Snowmobiles have a way of changing leaf springs frimness. It can be used with Morgans. See below.
...despite uprated adjustable shocks, which as you quite rightly pointed out once bottomed out tend lose their adjustability requiring me to increasing adjust them over time.
Frustrating.
1. Your adjustment is only good at the time you first fit them. What you are doing now is either very little or counter productive. Adjustability is an inventorying thing. Morgan dampers arrive in the setting (normally the least firm) that the manufacturer has determined is the best for Morgan. The best rates are from Morgan specialists, like Tim and Cain. Shocks made by others are a hope and prayer...and they too do not give out their rates. ( I found KONIs fine..luck) All sellers say theirs are for Morgans. They even often give "Morgan" model numbers, but they are made for many cars. Compromises are not ideal with your hobby.
2. Once again, damper settings have little if anything to do with the problems you are saddened by. As I noted on another thread, sagged or not, the leaf spring rate does not change. You merely bottom out (ouch!) very frequently because of the sagging biases the ideal ride height. So changing those oscillation by changing your damper setting (assuming it had any effect) makes you ride LESS comfortable. And too stiff a suspension has you bouncing down the road from painful impact to painful impact. Wryly speaking, cars handle, perform and speed their best when their wheels are on the ground rather than bouncing above it.
3. Dampers are supposed to change the spring created oscillations to something humans find comfortable. Read up on oscillations and dampers. Here is a start
https://www.toc.edu.my/automotiveandmotorsports-hub/2011/suspension-bibleI avoid using rear carriers, as years of motorcycling has taught me the adverse effect of luggage increasing weight over/beyond the rear wheel and moving the center of gravity can be very detrimental to handling and braking.
Smart man. A perfect example of trial and error. No theory needed. I began with performance snowmobiles. You learned a lot from motorcycles! Trial and error is bullet proof.
IDo you have any thoughts as to getting around the restriction in turning circle caused by BRB's fitment?
No. But we can work it out. Pictures? We will merely analyze what's happening and make your own or I can have a Morgan professional make them for you.
I also meant to increase the ride height at the front, to reduce risk of hitting the Mazda bellhousing, I don't remember the ride height ever being an issue in my Kent or CVH engined Morgans, although speed ramps were far less numerous back then compared to now
Can you not have the sump modified a la Peter Mulberry and the Roadsters? Or better still, are their steel sumps made for your model of engine? I have 3.4" clearance by I have two steel LR sumps. When one gets banged in, I switch to the other sump and bang out the dented one at my leisure. Alloy sumps give me the creeps. They shatter rather than dent and protecting them with a plate shortens the clearance even more!.
If your +4 is still on its original rear springs, it may have been built during the period where MMC used un-tempered liquorice for rear springs. Worth checking for sagging.
That is sad but accurate, Paul. But it happened with one leaf spring supplier after another. I have a theory.
On my 4/4 with 80 section tyres, I don't get any interference between tyres and brake reaction bars.
Good to know. But it is also costless to make brake reaction bars to suit.
As regards ride height, our 1985 CVH engined car didn't really have a speed bump ground clearance issue. The gearbox cross member on my current 4/4 (Mazda gearbox) seems to be hitting things on an almost regular basis.
Different designers and leaf springs.
BTW gentlemen, all of this is curable though I made some codicils about the source of leaf springs.
gmg
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