Originally Posted by Gordon D
Since day one of owning my Duratec plus 4 I noticed regular resistance when turning the steering, not very noticeable when driving and just noticeable when the car is jacked up and you turn the steering wheel

Gentlemen,

The trad 4-wheeler followed the original three wheeler philosophy. Put a commonly found engine (often muscly) in a hyper-light car and then leave all the rest to driver skill. So its problems have very little sophisticated about them, with the exception of those with later electrics and no-touch engines. So Luddite, the Morgan R&P design has not change since Jack Knight in 1984. Quaife merely copied it in 2006/7. It is the same as yours, only 30 years younger.

Their columns have three uncomplicated u-joints..as shown below. (I used an earlier JK schematic as the MMC 2014 diagram is too cluttered). The joints can be damaged with a hard bump. But when on the ground, the cars' weight on the front steering acts as a damper, minimizing the effect of the damage.

Gordan, when you loosened the bearing housing, (smart) you allowed the anomaly enough free play to disappear. When you re-tightened. you removed that play area you created. When the mechanic lubricated the area, that assembly was able to slide, temporarily, past the damage. Neither are permanent fixes, but they give you the diagnostic clues you need.

This very common steering issue has two key factors for a solution:

1. Recognizing it. My compliments Gordon. And I like that expression, "lumpy steering". Fits perfectly. smile

2. Determining which one of the u-joints (or more) must be replaced. Though your searching has pretty much put a finger on the one at the inner wing, which is, for me, the most vulnerable. Otherwise, the determination can be accomplished, albeit with the car high off the ground for the lower two. It is a 2 person job (which is why we get married!). wink One person at the steering wheel and the other at the u-joints feeling for the one (or more) with damage or a poor installation with their hands as the column turns. I also use a cheap automobile stethoscope. This automotive diagnostic tool uses a rod that you touch to am area of concern. It amplifies and passes along the internal sounds of items they are used upon in graphic detail. I see them on Amazon for 6 quid.

These u-joint should not be expensive..though I have seen a range of prices from £25-135 (!) within Morgan suppliers. 😂😂 When you remove that one, see if you can find a manufacturer and Part#. I would also add in a new bearing. Forgive me, I am far from my car again.

Good luck, Lorne

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