Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Steering - again

I forgot to thank PhilRoyle for his advice "to slow down, as Mogs are meant for cruising" - I do sort of agree, but it still won't fix the steering and anyway where's the fun in cruising, I can do that in my X5 with the a\c on, the panoramic sunroof and all the windows open, and something nice on the sound system [used to be called a radio/cassette/CD player, but I have to move with the times!]

Sorry Phil, had to mention it as I just knew someone would suggest I went a little slower, but the point is that the car only feels really nervous at speed, and I feel there is no need for it.

I still love the car and the whole concept.

I too find that when really pressing on on bumpy B & C roads you have to hang on for dear life and keep your thumbs out of the wheel spokes as it will hurt! The car in these conditions will need a bit more width of road to enable its bump steering character to be dealt with. OK when you're used to it but a bit unnerving the first few times. I like the idea of lowered front springs! Should I go get the new stronger front lower wishbones done? I was told that its optional and that Morgan will supply the parts free but not the labour to do it! Any comments?

Labour rates now appear to be £70. If you get it done, please bend the ear of anyone at the factory that you can, and don't let them faff you off with the old excuse that 'they all do that sir' and 'it is part of the personality of the car'.

And another thing, it has been mentioned somewhere that the way to drive around the bump steer is to hold the wheel loosely in the hands and just let it shimmy away to its' hearts content, which is fine when the road is straight, just try doing that on a corner and see where it gets you - into the nearest hedge...............

How do the 3W's respond to cornering with a balanced throttle?

I've found my 4W Roadster corners completely differently when cornering on a balanced throttle - more than any car I've owned in fact.

what is "balanced throttle"
Kevin

In my world, 'medium' throtle, under some power, but not too much. This keeps the weight transferred slightly back, loading the rear wheel for traction, but not too much. Most vehicles corner with most stability (leading to a more confident feel for the driver), when under a balanced throttle. Although my drives in the 3-Wheeler have been thus far limited to 2 test drives (my car is not due for another 6 weeks), the single driven wheel is of course more sensitive to the amounts of power being put through it during cornering. It has to do both sideways grip as well as forward motion. A balanced throttle gives it a chance to do both at the same time, but it is a balancing act......!

Another way to explain this is " by maintaining a constant speed, i.e.. nether accelerating nor decelerating".

I suppose, strictly speaking, 'balanced throttle' would mean no drive and no overun with consequent engine braking.

But, as R1NGA is quite right in saying, it is all about weight distribution, when accelerating the front end gets lighter and the rear heavier, with the effect that you get less front end grip, ie possibly understeer when cornering, and better traction, until too much power is applied and traction is broken. By the same token, getting right off the accelerator, will cause engine braking, putting weight onto the front tyres, which could give better grip, but lightening the back tyre[s]. which may result in lift off oversteer, in extremis.

So balanced throttle will keep the weight distribution pretty much in balance.

And, finally, to make an attempt at answering the question, I honestly haven't notice much difference under various throttle loadings, balanced or otherwise.

Many vintage cars (mine included) start the turn with the steering wheel, and can finish it with the throttle. Right turns at mini roundabouts are fun!

I am a new owner in central Oregon and found Paul's description of the non-linear feel to the steering to be spot-on. I did not feel comfortable having to vary my input pressure on the wheel to that extent.

I used Longacre "toe plates" to measure the toe geometry of my car after about 150 miles. I bought the basic model comprising two aluminum plates and two tape measures. They fit the wheels and made measuring beyond easy. I am glad I bought them. All measurements were in an unladen car.

Actual = 1.6mm toe out = 1/16" in old money
Factory spec = 4mm toe out
Re-adjusted toe-in = 1.6mm

I am not a suspension expert but 1/16" toe-in is said to be pretty typical for a light rear wheel-drive car.

This simple adjustment transformed my car! I took it for a 100-mile run today and the steering is now linear. I can correct mid-corner if needed as in a normal car. It continues to be stable in the straights provided the wind conditions are calm.

I believe my change also adversely affected the dreaded bump-steer, but for me, the change is worth it and I am not going back.

The adjustment was very easy with everything out in the breeze.

Steve Black