Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Zip ties on springs

I am in the process of fitting brake reaction bars and Mulfab's steering bearing kit.
Everything disassembled OK, although it was a bit difficult to remove the old main springs. I actually did it all without removing the calipers.
Now I'm re-assembling, and as those of you who have done this will know, fitting the main springs is a challenge, even though the new ones are shorter to make allowance for the steering bearings.
1. I can use my internal spring compressor to compress the springs, but what type of zip ties should I use and how many to hold the compressed springs safely?
2. I read somewhere that it is OK to leave the original steering brass (?) plate in place, as it doesn't hardly take up any space and becomes redundant. Is this correct?
3. Any tips on replacing the main springs!

Have a look here.

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/frontsuspension.html

http://www.morganownersclub.com.au/technical%20talk.htm#Front_Suspension_-_easy_removal

http://www.morganownersclub.com.au/Documents/SuspensionSpringRestraint%20Wroe.pdf

Thank you for the links, but I did quite some research before embarking on the project, and so I had seen the info.
What I need to do is simply compress the springs (I have an internal spring compressor that fits the Morgan springs) and hold them compressed to re-insert in to the suspension assembly. However, I am looking for some info from folks who have already done this and used either zip ties or some other method to hold the springs compressed for fitting.

I converted my 1993 +8 three years ago to the Mulfab ball thrust bearing conversion with the 140 lb/in springs. I found I did not need to use a compressor at all - just drop the axle stub as far as will go through the hole in the bottom mounting, fit the spring and top tube over it. Then by bending the spring (pull the middle, push the top) you can start to get the top of the spring/tube under the top mounting. Then a good shove gets it in place.
I put the king pin in next, up through the bottom, while the spring is easy to move around to the correct position, and put the top bolt in.
I did it with the calipers and hub taken off, but I don't think that having them left in position would alter any of the above.

You could leave the bronze plate in, but the whole point of the conversion is to get rid of it. If you leave it connected to the spring steel blades, then the ball bearing becomes redundant and you are in effect using the old system. However, the bronze set-up does give more friction, and if you begin to suffer from shimmy, you may prefer to go back to it. So you could put the bronze plate in and leave it disconnected, but make sure it doesn't hit anything, eg shock absorber, as it rotates with the stub axle when steering. And then you could re-instate the flex blades if you wanted to without having to strip it all down again.

Good luck!

I agree with the above. But don't leave the bronze plate in place.
Don't rely on cable ties without spring compressors, but spring compressors can be a bit marginal. Next time I'll probably try it without compressing - it should be possible with a bit of leverage as above.

Yup, this is pretty much the way I used to do it. Drop the kingpin, swing a bit so it points outwards, slide the spring and shroud over the pin, I use prybar to tuck the spring under the top mount and then shove it into position with my foot. No need for spring compressors at all, more trouble than they are worth in my view.

Now I have the Suplex kit, it's even easier as the adjusting collar can be simply dialled back.

I was watching Lawrie at Williams fitting my springs last week. He didn't use a spring compressor.

Very good, thanks to all. I will remove the old bronze plate, and try fitting springs without the compressor, or most likely try with minimal compression and 175 pound tensile strength zip ties (at least say 4 around each spring).

The Suplex system does not need a spring compressor because of the length of the unloaded spring and the fact that it is adjusted to the correct compression after fitting using the screw down adjuster rings.
Because the lower spring is not in compression at static ride height the main spring does not have to have so much compression as that of the current factory system.

Just to be absolutely. Sure, when fitting the steering bearing kit, I can discard the damper plate and the damper blade, correct?