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I want to check the rear drum brakes on 1992. 4/4. wire wheels.
Brake drum has 4 large slotted screws and 4 bolts. Which do I remove to remove the drum? From checking the sites I think its the 4 bolts, the screws act as lugs for the splined hub. But wish to check before proceeding.
Thanks


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Undo the bolts.


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The screws hold the hub to the axle.

Make sure you back off the brakes as it will make getting the hub off easier. If it sticks hit it ON TO the axle as this can free/break any rust etc.


Richard
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Also try and use new bolts when refitting as the old ones can shear when tightening.


Richard
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Take pictures of handbrake set up. This will need adjusting.once it is dismantled it can be awkward to put back as it needs adjusting.
I have just replaced the rear cylinders and shoes..
After bleeding the brake pedal is fantastic no travel hardly.
As the above suggest it the drum on to loosen it.
Andrew 1991 4/4

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http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/167328/Removing_brake_drums_spline_dr

This should help. No need to tighten the bolts too hard when you re-assemble.


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Gosh, the rear brakes look just like the ones on my 1960 something Ford Prefect, well other than the splined fitting for the wire wheels!

I know I should do this but to be honest I'd prefer to let Lawrie at Williams do it.....


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Tip I was told...

Don't try and tap the drums off from behind (basically you usually miss and hit the backplate!) but actually trying banging it 'on' with a hide hammer. The reaction makes it come off.

Worked for me viking


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Yes, back off the adjuster, good squirt of penetrating oil and a good whack with a copper mallet on the front edge of the drum as you rotate it. Never hit the back as it'll either clout the backplate or break a bit of the drum. Strongest part of the drum is the front edge on the angle. Never failed yet.
Steve


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And when it goes back, a little copaslip on the face will stop it sticking again, but make sure none gets on the braking surfaces!!
steve


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