Yes, my first 2012 model was, nothing, zilch noise, wonderful, and I didn't understand what the fus was about................until I bought the 2013, and I had to wait 1000 miles before Morgan would change it under warranty. I think Chunky put in proper oil which helped a lot.
I have given this high temp. running some thought and over the winter lay up will try and fabricate an NACA type of air duct into the floor pan to funnel cold air from under the car up and over the BB.
Have a look at the floor pan of a Lotus Elise MK1
Nuff said.
I went and made a couple of primitive vents using the prop cover that seems to keep my BB a bit cooler and quieter in the warm weather and long runs.
Along these lines and maybe I missed the post if so, but has anyone else used an infrared thermometer on their bevel box after a spirited run?
Before replacing the bevel box goo, my BB was running 240F degrees....the bottom end of the S&S was 220F degrees. After several BB flushings, I've run RedLine gear lube and RedLine Shockproof. My box temp goes down to around 160F degrees after a lube change but after a couple of hundred miles of use, it starts creeping back up to 180F-ish when I dump and change again. Though a drop from 240 to 160 is significant, 160F still seems too hot for what the box is doing. At 160F, you can't keep your hand on the box but for a split second. Parallel to all this, I test drove a SlingShot for about 40 miles running it hard (it was a demo) and immediately after the drive, I could put my hand on the box and keep it there as long as I wanted.
I've read here where it was mentioned that since the SlingShot box is bigger, it acts as a bigger heat sink...I'm not buying that. Any shaft-driven motorcycle is doing the same job, is much smaller than the BB and they don't get smoking hot.
Again, mine was a "goo" model Bevel Box. Those that were never subjected to that screw up may run much cooler and why I was curious of others had measured their box temps.
I am tempted to add molybdenum to my "bad" bevel box before I pull it just to see if it alters the heat characteristics of the box since I already have a new box due to be delivered Friday. I have a Moto Guzzi motorcycle where they recommend the addition of moly to the final drive and have for years. I've got a bottle on the shelf and feel like it is worth a try. Any port in the storm.
The only source of heat in a gear box the energy entering from the engine. The difference in power between input and output is consumed as friction and the only way to disperse that wasted energy is heat and noise.
If the box achieves 240F/100c it should be possible, based on the known mass of the box and assuming an ambient air temperature of 15C and no effective cooling, to work out how many BHP are needed to achieve a steady state at 100C.
Anyone a good enough mechanical engineer to do that?
Not that it really helps, as if the box is converting so much energy into heat and noise "something" is still wrong and cooling the box doesn't solve the problem, it just hids the main symptom.
Peter, 66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
