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Took my car for 20+ mile test drive yesterday after very easy fit of Aerosport stage 1 kit. Very first impression on start-up was the deep and pleasing boom from exhaust, quickly followed by staccato bark when throttle blipped.

Noticeably louder with slight popping on overrun but not unpleasantly so, especially when cruising, although you are aware the pipes are shorter. Can't comment on induction noise or (thankfully) bevel box due to extra exhaust sound wink

Engine definatly more responsive but wonder how much the increased aural response effects peoples judgement of improvement.

Haven't re-fitted heat shields yet although did trial them. Will need to be careful with closer silencer section.


Richard

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Originally Posted By Richard Wood

Haven't re-fitted heat shields yet although did trial them. Will need to be careful with closer silencer section.


I had to use some spacers on my heat shields, without them the silencer hit the shields on the overrun.


2021 M3W
2013 M3W - Sold
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Still bearing the scar on one leg some 3 months after leaning on exhaust when openning boot, Good idea heat shields.....๐Ÿš‘

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Originally Posted By TasM3W
Still bearing the scar on one leg some 3 months after leaning on exhaust when openning boot, Good idea heat shields.....๐Ÿš‘


Touched silencer part immediately after longish fast run and was surprised I could almost hold my hand there. Not yet summer of course, but maybe further proof how much less restrictive they are.


Richard

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Unlike the standard silencers, the Stage 1 silencers stay at a reasonably friendly temperature along most of their length. Bear in mind that a short section at the leading end and a longer section at the trailing end get hot enough to discolour the stainless and are much less friendly! I don't have heat shields on mine and don't feel the need for them. The unshielded exhaust fore and aft of the shields location will happily remove any skin that touches them regardless of them being fitted or not.
And I like the look of the bare pipes. laugh

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I know they are expensive but I really think that the G56 pipes are the answer. Firstly you end up with two flexy sections, which frees the engine to rock sideways at idle (as an alternative, remove the front metallastic bobbin and put a much larger rubber bobbin on the rear mount, as that also allows the engine to rock from side to side). The second point is that the G56 pipes have no baffles at all, which must be one stage better for gas flow than drilled baffles. They use silencers close to double the diameter of the original ones (hence why the support brackets have to be changed), so though you get a bit more noise, it is less sharp than the original, especially with drilled baffles. It is a deeper noise. Together with G56's air intake and ECU, I could not believe how much better my 2012 M3W was running in the hot weather in the south of France. I just wish I had it to drive now, as I am currently waiting for a replacement chassis since May, to be delivered to France.

Wilson

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Quote:
Today I used a 38mm hole cutter on the front baffles. Only needed one cutter but its a slow job. I did not manage to fully cut through so the cut out is only bent back but it wont rattle. Plenty of smoke for 2 miles till my cutting fluid burnt off.
There is more bark now under acceleration but at steady speed seems no louder. Hard to tell with a short run but it does feel a bit more lively. I wonder if fuel consumption will improve with a freer breathing engine or will using it a bit harder cancel it out?

Tim


Today I removed the front baffles with a 38mm cutter. On slow speed it went through in no time (Bosch bimetal cutter). No need for cutting fluid and the cut off disc just fell out.

Looking down one pipe I can see the two perforated discs as mentioned in other postings. However, on the other pipe the centre disc is missing ? I'll leave them there for the moment.

I also modified the standard air filter cover to increase the exposed area of air filter by about three times.

A short test drive (started to rain) showed a slight increase in noise but nothing drastic. The biggest change was that the engine seemed much more lively and free revving.


Colin LAWRENCE
M3W SuperDry


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Velo
Take out the rest of the baffles and there WILL be an increase in noise
The front ones are probably the hardest. My test was to keeping removing baffles til the headers don't glow red at night. Have fun

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Thatโ€™s the cheapest most worthwhile modification.

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Does help gas flow makes engine happier! and its free, but MMC stage 1 or G56 or KH systems work even better, but at a cost.. drive

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