Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Build delays for EU-spec M3Ws

ShaunD BRG & tan leather will be good. In my opinion go for the more traditional fluted leather rather than diamond pattern. I've driven through some really heavy rain & if you can wipe seats down not a problem. My immobiliser which has given no trouble but my insurer said it made no difference to premium. I also have bright pack, it looks good but science says the engine will cool better with black fins, wish I had heated seats. I took over a cancelled order so took spec as was.

Tim

Hi Folks,

This is my first post having just joined the group ahead of delivery of a black and tan M3W ordered through Stuart at KrazyHorse in March. My order seems to have got caught up in the delays caused by MMC preparing for Euro 4 emission test compliance as reported by ShaunD. Stuart informs me that my mid May build may now be completed in July. Is this in line with what other folks are being told? I am also not clear whether to expect a Euro 3 or Euro 4 compliant vehicle and indeed whether they are different mechanically or whether it is just a question of testing and paperwork.

Full spec should you be interested:-

Non Metallic Paint (Standard Sport Black)
Main Leather colour choice (Standard Yarwood Brooklands Tan/Honey)
Dash Leather Panel colour choice (Standard Black)
Leather storage pockets
Mohair Tonneau cover (Black)
Heated Seats
Passenger Foot-well storage box
Rear Mudguard
Bright Pack - Polished roll hoops, cowl, engine and headlights
Chrome front wheels and tyres complete
Enamel Union Jack bonnet badges
Heritage Full windscreen
Vintage bonnet catches
2 Eared Wheel Spinners
Luggage Rack
KrazyHorse Front Suspension Geometry upgrade (Polished)


John

Hi JRTOX.

Below is an extract from an email i received last week;

As you are aware. M3W builds conforming to European regulations where postponed but are expected to restart shortly and your build is at the head of the queue. I will speak to Morgan this week and hope to get conformation of your build date.

Email dated 25th April.

Hope this helps.

John.

Ps, my build number is M3W 84083

I am intrigued by the ‘under dash’ Ignition cut out switch and Substitute rectifier in you specification. How much were you quoted for the switch and what is the substitute rectifier.

John

This is a "KEY" type battery cut off switch. I usually mounts out of sight and it goes in series to the battery cable, usually the positive, but could be used in either.



Jegs.com link here for all cut off switches.

In most high performance racing classes, a easily operated cut off switch is required. In drag racing they are usually on the right rear of the car and most of the times there is a rod that you can push quickly to drop power throughout the car.

I had a remote cut off switch on my Willys, but didn't use it much. Because I had power door openers and power trunk/boot, I also had remote battery terminals mounted inside the driver's rear fender that could be reached in the case I had to jump the battery to open a door etc. Also my battery was buried inside the trunk behind a couple panels and not very easy to reach on a good day.

These are the bulkhead type and worked great for my needs.



As far as a substitute rectifier, it may mean that they want to use a Harley rectifier right up front like a lot of guys here have gone to after their short lived M3W rectifier goes south on them. Not sure about that though.

JRTOX hi, i just asked for an additional cut out switch. I did not specify what type. It may be just a small toggle switch.

Early S&S rectifiers had a habit of failing and doing damage to the battery.
The Harley unit has no such problems.

The S&S unit adjusts the current that gets sent the battery. So when it fails it fry`s the battery.
The Harley unit produces Max current and dumps the excess to earth.

Thats why i asked for this unit to be replaced.

The Harley units costs £70 from Ebay. The S&S unit from Morgan costs a lot more.

I think they both work in principal by high speed switching on/off of the alternator output to the battery in order to limit charge voltage. During the off cycle the output is effectively shorted (earthed), although the reluctance effect means there isn't undue electrical strain during this crude form of control.

Unlike car alternators most, but not all, motorcycle alternators potentially work flat out for any given revs, as the full field is always there courtesy of a permanent magnet. Control has to be applied at the output therefore.

Doubtless there are electronic differences in how this control switching is achieved but I can't recall any recent models suffering defects of the factory item, especially since the mounting was changed to the chassis rather than engine. Apologies if I'm wrong.

What is this thread about?😂

Something you haven't got ?

A delayed U.K. build.