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Joined: May 2011
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Originally Posted By Areg
P694, when I was told that there is a spacer that helps with the bump steer, my assumption was that it might go on top of the lower ball joint and consequently reduce the front height.
I have a pretty bad drive so that may be a problem but now I know that I would have 4" clearance so I can measure and make sure. Thanks.
What shocks did you use if you don't mind?

The spacer is approximately 2 inches long and raises the location of the the outer end of the steering arm so that it is more parallel to the ground, the kit includes more than just the spacers as there are additional brackets supporting the top of the steering arms as well.
Fiollow the link on the first page of this post, shows a picture of the setup.

Last edited by Rog G; 01/10/17 02:44 PM.

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Originally Posted By P964
Hi Areg
I was told by my dealer that our regulators wouldnt like the comfort kit.

I decided to go another route and bought the adjustable shocks for the front and lowered the car sufficiently to get the steering arms near horizontal. This makes the steering much better .
Only down side is that you have just 4 inch of clearance at the front. No big issues really to date unless on dirt road!

Food for thought


I'll admit that getting the lower stance will help, but the bumpsteer is a situation of an out of alignment with the a-arms, not the ground.

If designed correctly, you "could" have a setup with all a-arms sloping upward and the tie rod sloping upward as well. As long as the length of the tie rod is equal to the theoretical distance of the pivot point of both a-arms and the centerline of the upper/lower ball joints as its own elevation, all is good.

I know that in the past lowering gets the bumpsteer better, but raising the tie rod upward at the outboard end is the best way to do this.

I don't think a spacer is the correct way to do this and MMC has since moved the steering arm up on the spindle to the proper point.

Doesn't the comfort kit have another steering arm that bolts in under the top ball joint and then you mount the tie rod end under the top NEW steering arm and use the spacer under the end to make up the difference? Again, not the best because the upper arm is not welded to the spindle, but better than just the spacer and the tie rod end bolted to the top of it.

I found that with some bump steer on my hot rod with a solid front axle, if I didn't hold on tightly to the steering wheel that the steering wheel would move within my hands and not force the tires to move around out front.

I hope all is a bit better for you now, enjoy your ride.


Dan
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Lowering the car 30mm will sort it. That was its original design ride height.

Mine runs 100mm front and 110mm at the rear measured from front of chassis to ground and rear cross member to ground. Measured with 75kg of ballast on board.

I have had no problems with it bottoming out.

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Lower the front and you change the caster

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Only to what it should have been.
I spent hours and hours trying different set ups and then taking measurements.

30mm seemed to be the magic number and then the Empire Kit was the cherry on the cake.

I suppose the ultimate would be Ohlins as well, but where do you draw the line with cost etc.

To be honest my car is nothing like the car it was when I got it.

It tracks arrow straight even on poor roads and holds its line in corners being progressive near the limit gives me confidence to drive it as it should be driven.

Had a Maclaren 650s on a roundabout the other week, he didn't expect it would be that good in the bends.

Mind you he left me for dead at the next dual carriageway but I know who was having more fun.

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I used the Spax adjustable front shocks available from the Morgan Shop. Aero Racing I believe.

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Originally Posted By hbatts
Lower the front and you change the caster


Lowering or compressing standard front suspension will make slight change to kingpin (upright) inclination but not caster per se, although both affect steering.

Only the Empire kit accomodates caster angle change by allowing upright upper to be moved fore and aft.


Richard

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