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The problem is that unburned hydrocarbons that are not fully burnt in the catalytic converter can contaminate the coating on the matrix. I am sure the exhaust wrap helps but when I was offered the option of a richer coating that would start to operate at lower temperatures on the matrix of my new cat I decided to pay the extra. So far no regrets. When it is up to temperature I can even have the car running for a few minutes in my underground garage without choking on the fumes.

I would definitely try the exhaust wrap, when hot and dry I can even touch it without risking a scald, but eventually a higher quality cat may be worth considering.

An interesting note on life expectancy:

Quote:
How long can a catalytic converter last?

The duration of a good catalytic converter will depend on how it is used.

Normally, after 60-70,000 Km, the catalytic power will be less than half, and the abatement of emissions can decrease from 98% to 50%. When that happens, it should be replaced.

Its loss of effectiveness is caused by a gradual ablation of the precious metals and its sintering, which is caused by high temperatures. The dispersion of the precious metals therefore fails, dramatically reducing their catalytic power.


https://brainkat.it/en/technology/


Peter

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+1 to Peter's comments. The wrap is an easy/low cost way to alleviate the symptoms.


Ian

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Ian,Peter

Thanks for your insight and practical solutions.



Regards


" I LOVE THE SOUND OF THROTTLE BODIES IN THE MORNING " (ROBERT DUVAL IN "APOCOLYPSE NOW " )
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I had ‘the fume problem’ on my 89 Plus 8, this originally had an 8 into 1 rear exit tailpipe, no fumes, changed to Librands twin system & that’s when the issue first occurred, on over-run mainly, under power it was fine. I experimented with airdeflectors, side exit tailpipes, spare wheel on & off, bumper on & off, mandrel bent angled ends experimenting in all directions, tried shorter, longer, filling the gap behind petrol tank area and rear of bodywork, no luck. Shenstone & District Car Club own Curborough Sprint & one of our members ran the wind tunnel at Mira (handy) he did alot of work with Morgan many years ago so knew the issues with barn door aerodynamics. From memory it’s all to with the low pressure area behind the windscreen ie the cockpit, if you can reduce it by bridging the gap between headrests it will almost cure the problem, I never did get around to making the final version but cardboard was too flimsy so Perspex was tried, it works, such a relatively simple solution. From what I can see so that’s 29 yrs to my knowledge that no-one has made an aftermarket solution, hint hint.


80’s J Deere Tractors, Morgan Roadster & 1929 Scott Flying Squirrel
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Perspex windstop is at the end of this post. Scroll down......

A diy solution which could easily be productionised.

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/375009/4

innocent


DaveW
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Thanks Dave, due to my ‘time off’ I missed that sorry, I’ve seen it somewhere else more recently but can’t remember where.......


80’s J Deere Tractors, Morgan Roadster & 1929 Scott Flying Squirrel
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Originally Posted By Nigel Ingram
80’s J Deere Tractors, Morgan Roadster & 1929 Scott Flying Squirrel

Any photos of the Scott and tractors? smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Nigel

Thanks for your post ...it all makes sense.

Solutions:

Deal with the cause (upgraded cat)

Deal with the symptoms

Drive it hard so it goes like a stabbed rat !!!

hee hee


" I LOVE THE SOUND OF THROTTLE BODIES IN THE MORNING " (ROBERT DUVAL IN "APOCOLYPSE NOW " )
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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By KEVFITZ


Drive it hard so it goes like a stabbed rat !!!



In my experience this is always the correct response! drive


Tim H.
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And if you are doing serious motoring on side pipes then wear ear plugs. I have some really neat accoustic ones after having my ear canals scanned. Not expensive. Message me if you want to know where I sourced them


1980 +8 Blue
And a few others
----------------
Stephen
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