Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) brake reaction stays, anti-tramp etc. do they work

So I am a little more enlightened. But some of you have done more than one upgrade a a time, and then it would be difficult to say what single mod was the most efficient. Then again, I recognize that small unnoticeable changes migth add up something that is clearly significant. But where to start? Brake reaction stays are cheap, I they should add to the stability of the front end not only when braking. As I have said, I have not experienced tramp, and I can assure you - I do notice what is going on. Steering bearings should do the steering lighter. As for the Panhard rod, I will take another look, but do not think it is there. My shocks are Sachs gas dampers, which nobody else seems to use. Any more comments?
I take the opportunity to thank my fellow members on TM for being informative, competent and polite. It is a pleasure to take part in this community.

Depends on whether you have ever "run out of braking" in your car - I have. Braking at the end of a 70mph DC into an uphill roundabout approach, I hadn't calculated on undulations in the road surface making the front-end so unsettled that I could feel the steering 'snatching' as tyre load varied side to side. Despite being smooth on the pedal, the brakes would have locked had I not modulated and pulsed.

BRBs are so cheap (there again, so is better observation of the road surface!) that I will get some fitted in September when it is serviced. I may not ever (deliberately) drive the car hard enough to discover whether they would have made a difference in that situation, but looking at how flimsy the cross-head is on a Trad Morgan, they can only help.

Panhard Rod is a must .

Robbie,
My 2010 Roadster Sport came with roller bearings and Avo shock absorbers and a different exhaust-i.e not slash exhausts as advertised. I have fitted a panhard rod, and braided brake hoses and BHM fitted brb's and a modified sump and guard.
When I first drove it I thought it was poorer than my Plus Four which had Mulfab bearings and shortened 140lb front springs and Spax all round but I think now that it was just different and I find it to be really good. Btb, I have had opportunities to drive MX5's and Audi tt's and nice as they are I would not swap.

It all depends on how you drive. If you just pootle about you probably have no need for one and it does stiffen up the ride as well which some people may not like.

I guess it also depends on the angle in which the Panhard Rod is mounted.
In the 3.0 Roadster I found it so hard and uncomfortable that it was dismantled after one week.

In the Plus4SS was a Panhard Rod as standard, which did not have these negative characteristics.

To return to the question, I would mount BRB and good shock absorbers.

I wouldn't necessarily take Panhard Rod. Anti Tramp Bars...only one was installed in the 2010 3.0 Roadster. I had a second one installed with good results. This means that the force does not pull unilaterally when accelerating. In the former 2005 Roadster I had no ATB at all, and I never felt the need to have one. But the leaf springs should be strong enough not to wind up under normal acceleration. Otherwise the cardan could touch the floor tunnel. If this does not happen I guess, that no ATB could be better than only one.

And there are very experienced mechanics (e.g. in my Morgan garage) who are careful with all the additional things. With my 4/4 I also only have the 140 pounds of mulfab springs in front, AVOs adjustable around and now I get the 4 seater leaf springs for rear installed. That is all.

You could do two things wrong, one is that the car can become increasingly uncomfortable. The other thing (especially with the 4/4) is that the chassis becomes "too good"...and thus more boring in relation to the engine power.

This is just my 2 cent, everyone will answer this in a different way.

Heinz,

Do you know how many clicks you are using with the AVO's in the front?


thanks,

joe

In combination with 140 pounds of Mulfab coil springs it takes 5 clicks.

Only, so far I had the too soft rear leaf springs. In the back I had 6 clicks. This served the purpose that the leaf springs were artificially overdamped in order not to bounce through continuously.

What I'm saying is that when I get my car back in three weeks, I may also have to readjust the front shocks if I have a stronger rear leaf spring.

But with 5 clicks in front you can start either way. With 6 clicks in front the cornering becomes even more controlled and you have a more direct feeling without a little understeer. But it's also getting harder and a little less relaxed.

When I finally get the right springs in the back, I suspect it will be a similar setting as it was in the P4SS.
Because if the rear spring works well, the classic setting is actually such that you ride harder at the front and softer at the rear with such old technology. E.g. 6 clicks in front and 4 clicks in the back.

Take a look at this video from 3.0 minutes on Heinz. Imagine how much the rear springs are distorting to allow so much deflection of the differential.

The first part of the video is with anti tramp bars fitted.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otP5xU8qvYY&t=131s

I know this video mph, yes, it is perhaps saver to have ATB installed. But then I would take two of them each side. BTW the video shows a 3,7 Roadster delivering even much more power than a 3.0. TBH even if I felt no need regarding my 2005 R to have ATB I don‘t know if it looked quite similar horrible as in this video but I guess it was more ok concerning the less power.