Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Break cylinder corrosion and prevention

Checking all 2-3 years the brakes, I noticed I should have checked and protected the cylinders and calipers immediately after the new car pick up (+4 2009). Although doing not many kilometers in rain and standing in a dry garage, the first check revealed starting corrosion of the rear cylinders/pistons and minimal pitting on the front caliper pistons surface. Fortunately found still in time and it was possible to remove and polish the starting damage.

The reason is, that the outer part of the rear cylinder covered by the boot is unprotected steel.
The outer part of the front 4-caliper cylinder is not protected by a boot at all. And they seem not stainless and not chrome plated (could it be?) as I expected – really surprised!

It is worth immediately after purchasing a new car to protect the outer cylinder surface e.g. with the Ate-brake cylinder paste (was blue, now transparent) or similar.
I inject about 2-4 ml cylinder paste with a small syringe under the rear boots (assumed they were checked and are clean and free of rust).
To protect the “naked” front caliper cylinder is difficult, as they are not protected by a rubber boot. I apply a thin (!) layer of the brake cylinder paste on the visible area and also on the rubber seal in the caliper. This has to be done very careful to avoid any smear on the discs, so really just a thin layer!

I have been practicing this on my 85 VW Bus Caravelle during last 25 years, including regular brake liquid change. The Bus had 550000 km and still original rear brake cylinders, they were not leaking! Meanwhile changed at a brake upgrade occasion.

The Mog's brake cylinders are prone to corrode and need regular attention, on new cars as soon as possible.

Peter

Sounds like good advice to me. It is the corrosion that helps ruin the seals and cause can cause leaks - although on low mileage / little use cars its the seizing up that seems the more common problem. I suspect peterds advice above would sort that.

Now that's the advice I needed a while back as all my brake parts had to be replaced due to corrosion after 3 years.

Peters original post got me thinking - better go and have a look!. Gently peeling back the cylinder rubber boots and pushing the shoes either way to expose the moving/sliding part revealed the some dreaded orange/brown residue. Lots of brake cleaner and careful cleaning brought them back to silver metal. I popped a light coating of brake paste onto the moving surfaces with an artists brush once clean - assisted by pushing the shoes side to side. Finally putting the rubber boots back on and reassembling etc - and a road test! Any excuse.

If it wasn't for peters timely post I think they may well of seized over the winter months, as I avoid the Morgan meeting salt. So thankyou for the reminder.

I took the opportunity to bleed the brakes at the same time.

Thanks. Just about to change the adjusters on mine so I'll do that at the same time.

Chaps,
I have the brake cleaner but what is brake paste please?

Regular use will prolong the life of wheel cylinders, and new brake fluid every two years. My Roadster is still on original cylinders after 13 years. I'm expecting trouble soon, and I have the parts, but I've changed the fluid every two years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATE-BRAKE-CYLINDER-ASSEMBLY-PASTE-BRAKE-RUBBER-GREASE-LUBE-Paste-180g-GENUINE/282986082178?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3D32d15c367868469592f3d8531e0d62f5%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D223180908340%26itm%3D282986082178&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985


This is one type - others no doubt also available!

Andy is that not just red rubber grease at 10 times the price. I assume the same thing but in blue.

Good advice as I'm about to refurb my brakes.