Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Best rust covering paint ?

The best rust converter is called Vactan, it is the original chemical formulated by ICI and it can be sprayed or brushed , it is water based and cheap as chips on EBay, it can be primed and painted

if the corrosion after scraping & wirebrushing isn’t severe it can be painted with a paint called Fortress from B&Q, no primer is required this paint is manufactured by Tor Paints' if you buy from them you’ll save about 30%, unfortunately I can’t remember Tor’s name for the paint , it goes on quite thick and produces a stove enamel type finish - read the tin carefully before using

Decided to start with a good scraping and wire brushing.

Then attacked some of the exposed rust with Kurust. I chose that because I had heard of it from the old days and my local motor factor had it in stock.

I have to say I'm very impressed. It's turned even quite badly pitted steel black and left what looks like a well keyed surface for subsequent painting.

One interesting side effect is that where the crosshead appears to be bronze welded (brazed?) where the cross tube goes through, the bronze has gone shiney. Just like if you put a penny in Coke (or I guess any other Cola)

I expected the acid fumes to be quite bad but It was OK even without a mask.

I also expected it to attack my nitrile gloves but not so.

So far so good but still a lot of work to do.

POR 15 gets some good reviews. I bought a Starter kit to do some brackets on my old 4/4 but sold it before I did them. I still have the kit and will try it over the winter if the paint is still ok. It needs using fairly soon after opening the tin apparently as it sets really hard. The kit has small tins so no major loss if it is gone off. It comes with prep solutions too.
I bought it here...... www.frost.co.uk.
Their Eastwood chassis paint is good too. Used it on the 4/4 rear axle.
Just remembered the Pepsi. Used it on the cast iron exhaust manifold. Soaked a Scotchpad in it and washed them down. It did take the colour back to a grey. Good old phosphoric acid!

Jack , what would you do when dealing with rust on a car from step 1 ?

Madmax.... when you asked "Jack , what would you do when dealing with rust on a car from step 1 ? I smiled, as in my mind paint is just about the LAST step in the restoration process....(-:

My thinking is a tad more basic in terms of the effectiveness of initial design and maintenance relative to attempts to restrict the ability of corrosion to take hold in the FIRST place..? In that regard I suspect the areas susceptible to rot and rust in TRAD Morgans may have been well documented over the years, which would seem to be the best place to pay attention to applying preventative and preservation methods..?

IvorMog
I'm a bit late to this but check out the Fertan website. If it's used for ships it be good for MOGS

Whatever coating you finish the job with will only be as good as the prep work. Even the rust cure paints need thorough prep for the chemicals to work and prevent more rust coming back.
My dad (a coachbuilder) used to say....” I wonder what the paint/ underseal is hiding?).

Given a coachbuilder of many years experience can be left thinking "I wonder what the paint/underseal is hiding ?" I guess trad Morgan buyers may be fortunate to have less of a challenge to find any structural issues compared to those which can be close to impossible to find on some modern and high cost "classics," all of which depends upon the strength built into their monocoque, and which may now be held together by a number of patchwork repairs all hidden under a mix of cataloy (bondo) underseal and paint..? I suspect some buyers of very costly machinery would be surprised as to the existence of filler being used to sweeten up the panels on their cars before they even left the factory that produced them... I suspect perhaps more than enough for the OCD inclined "collectors" to flip their lid....?