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Correct hammer to use is a lead hammer, copper is too hard and nylon too soft.

Supplied with the original toolkit in my 1971 4/4

Arwyn

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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
........
Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
Colin

Colin, is a Donk harder or softer than a Tonk? Just asking for a friend laugh


Peter

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No Peter, a Tonk is the sort of chap who would give you a Donk when coming out of the pub !!


Here for a good time not a long time!!
Reg
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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
At home and on ’customer’ cars I use a large and heavy Thor double white nylon, it chews the end caps but they are cheap and easy to change (still last 5 years at least) in UK like this
https://leachs.net/thor-nylon-hamme...BiMHNAikgNK3qHK78-0mLzqhUQBoCVLsQAvD_BwE

Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
Colin



Thor double white nylon is the one for me. Keith at BHM introduced to me and if he uses one then that's good enough for me!!


Here for a good time not a long time!!
Reg
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Originally Posted by Gambalunga
Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
........
Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
Colin

Colin, is a Donk harder or softer than a Tonk? Just asking for a friend laugh


Its all about the angle, the angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the swing of the ding...… ;-)

BR
Colin (hardest lesson I learnt as a very spotty apprentice is what exactly does 'tight' mean.... nip tight, finger tight, cush it up, tight and FT were expressions used by the skilled guys, happy days)


BR Colin
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Originally Posted by lowebird
Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
At home and on ’customer’ cars I use a large and heavy Thor double white nylon, it chews the end caps but they are cheap and easy to change (still last 5 years at least) in UK like this
https://leachs.net/thor-nylon-hamme...BiMHNAikgNK3qHK78-0mLzqhUQBoCVLsQAvD_BwE

Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
Colin



Thor double white nylon is the one for me. Keith at BHM introduced to me and if he uses one then that's good enough for me!!


Yup
Been using one for years, the nylon end caps have been used on dozens or cars when I was changing kingpins every month, never had an issue and current ones are at least 5 years old, probably older. The beauty is there is considerable weight so you don't have to swing hard like the smaller Thor hammers provided with the cars so less chance of a mis-hit and catching the wing! Up to each what they use of course.


BR Colin
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I made this, no more hitting with hammers. Its just large enough to turn without the need to hit it.



[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


Craig Jezz


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Originally Posted by Craig Jezz

I made this, no more hitting with hammers. Its just large enough to turn without the need to hit it.



[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


Posted by a man with skill and a router! ;-), I have always struggled working in wood, it’s a bugger to weld a bit back in when I have cut too much off. My buddy before we moved house was a retired pattern maker and I marvelled at his skills. I have always been rubbish working with wood.

Very envious
BR
Colin


BR Colin
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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
[quote=Craig Jezz]
I made this, no more hitting with hammers. Its just large enough to turn without the need to hit it.

Posted by a man with skill and a router! ;-), I have always struggled working in wood, it’s a bugger to weld a bit back in when I have cut too much off. My buddy before we moved house was a retired pattern maker and I marvelled at his skills. I have always been rubbish working with wood.

Very envious
BR
Colin


My Father was a pattern maker and I used to be in awe of his woodwork skills.

He was also a Fitter in the RAF in the late 40's so I was also in awe of his mechanical capabilities.

My woodwork was always a great disappointment to him even though I did get a Grade 1 GCE O Level in woodwork


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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
Originally Posted by lowebird
Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
At home and on ’customer’ cars I use a large and heavy Thor double white nylon, it chews the end caps but they are cheap and easy to change (still last 5 years at least) in UK like this
https://leachs.net/thor-nylon-hamme...BiMHNAikgNK3qHK78-0mLzqhUQBoCVLsQAvD_BwE

Out and about if needed I would use the hide side first and if it moved fine if not turn the hammer over. Remember to tighten only needs a medium weight tap as they self tighten, tap up to centralise wheel off ground, lower and a couple of Donks (technical term ;-)) to nip up and a hard brake first stop. Job done.

BR
Colin



Thor double white nylon is the one for me. Keith at BHM introduced to me and if he uses one then that's good enough for me!!


Yup
Been using one for years, the nylon end caps have been used on dozens or cars when I was changing kingpins every month, never had an issue and current ones are at least 5 years old, probably older. The beauty is there is considerable weight so you don't have to swing hard like the smaller Thor hammers provided with the cars so less chance of a mis-hit and catching the wing! Up to each what they use of course.



I also use Thor double ended nylon hammers, a heavier one and smaller one in my toolkit in the car. Unless used a lot the nylon caps dont need replacing and my spinners arent marked by them. I also sometimes use a wooden spinner saver.


Rob

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