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#619149 26/02/20 05:18 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
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PaulyG Offline OP
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Pulled into a gas station the other day. A guy walking by said "There's something leaking under your car". I said of course there is...it's English!

Sorry.

What I have is a leak in the radiator, just under the lip near the top. Since I do air conditioning repairs I've been brazing pipes for years, but nothing this thin. Is this something I should attempt, or should I leave it to the experts?

It's a 73 4/4

Thanks


Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
1984 Citoen 2CV Special "BeBe"
https://morgan34.org/
PaulyG #619155 26/02/20 05:40 PM
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Part of the Furniture
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Part of the Furniture
L
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Solder can work well though I have used two pack epoxy repair methods with success also under the brand name Araldite Rapid in the UK

Good luck in your choices. thumbs

PaulyG #619160 26/02/20 05:59 PM
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PaulyG Offline OP
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A good silver solder might be a better option than brazing. Less heat needed to get it flowing. I think the prep might be the hardest part.


Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
1984 Citoen 2CV Special "BeBe"
https://morgan34.org/
PaulyG #619161 26/02/20 06:04 PM
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Tricky Dicky
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Tricky Dicky
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Get hold of some Coraline Flux if you can it's half the job done provided you have cleaned the surfaces well it's the key to successful soldering together with an adequate 150 Watt Iron..


2009 4/4 Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Connaught Green +8 prev





PaulyG #619162 26/02/20 06:09 PM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 121
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L - Learner Plates On
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J
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Dare I suggest K seal ???
Regards, John.

PaulyG #619165 26/02/20 06:28 PM
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PaulyG Offline OP
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Not a fan of epoxys and sealers. I have more faith in solder or braze. Unless you know something I don't.

I want to remove the radiator to effect the repair. This way I can be sure I've got all the holes. Any suggestions and tricks to getting it out?


Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
1984 Citoen 2CV Special "BeBe"
https://morgan34.org/
PaulyG #619167 26/02/20 06:44 PM
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TBM Offline
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I've got a 72 4/4. To remove, unbolt the three rubber bobbins (two at bottom and one at top). The top mount cross bar is easy to remove - screw in the two inside nuts, and then remove the two outside nuts and the bar comes out completely. Easy to swing the radiator out through the engine bay. Pretty sure you can slide it out with the bonnet in place, but much easier without it.

Picture shows top mount bobbin and top crossbar. My rad is about 15mm further forward due to electric fan.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by TBM; 26/02/20 06:45 PM.

1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT
1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
PaulyG #619170 26/02/20 06:46 PM
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PaulyG Offline OP
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I was hoping it was that simple. Thanks.

Is the crossbar just there for the radiator, or is it adding front stiffness? How important is it that it is adjusted back to the same place it started?

Last edited by PaulyG; 26/02/20 06:48 PM.

Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
1984 Citoen 2CV Special "BeBe"
https://morgan34.org/
PaulyG #619173 26/02/20 06:55 PM
Joined: Sep 2016
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Has a lot to Say!
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I’ve had lots of success soft soldiering radiators in the past. I’ve also silver soldered and brazed them.

Radiator repairers I know always soft solder.

I’m sure you already know totally dry and spotlessly clean.


2012 Plus 4 in Sport Green. Much comfier than the Plus 8!
PaulyG #619207 27/02/20 02:02 AM
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T
Talk Morgan Expert
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T
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Luddite, don’t use Araldite rapid but the original ‘24 hrs to cure’ type, far far better.A friend and I fitted a Fish carb to a Beetle years ago, couldn’t get a suitable manifold for it so we Araldited the carb to the existing manifold, worked perfectly!


1969 4/4
1995 plus 8
2002 Aero S1
2013 M3W
2014 Plus 8
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