Click here to return to the home page.
Morgan 3 Wheeler
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 298 guests, and 33 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Top Posters(30 Days)
+8Rich 89
Newest Members
Scot_SJI, Jimmers, Breen60, Davidmog, Stevecarr
9,596 Registered Users
Newest Topics
Renewing the twin aero horns
by Moggo - 27/08/26 05:24 PM
4-4 zetec Fuel filter
by Phil63 - 27/08/26 03:38 PM
CX Auto lock
by TeddyAds - 27/08/26 12:56 PM
3.7 Roadster Greasing Q
by ScottMellor - 26/08/26 05:31 PM
Goodbye Dolly
by Clipper - 25/08/26 09:57 PM
Hot start .... vapour lock
by Pittsartist - 25/08/26 08:00 PM
Immobiliser
by Clipper - 25/08/26 12:42 PM
Latest Photos
tow bar
tow bar
by G Walker, August 24
Prescott double anniversary
Prescott double anniversary
by CooperMan, August 18
Air Crash Sites: Cairngorms
Air Crash Sites: Cairngorms
by RedThree, August 13
Four-seater luggage rack
Four-seater luggage rack
by Soleng, August 9
New M3W orange 2012
New M3W orange 2012
by jejemek, August 7
Forum Statistics
Forums39
Topics49,841
Posts837,324
Members9,596
Most Online1,063
Jun 14th, 2026
Today's Birthdays
Christoph
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 13 of 14 1 2 11 12 13 14
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
H
L - Learner Plates On
Offline
L - Learner Plates On
H
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
I am looking for a picture of inside the pipe at the baffle. I am thinking if they are tack welded like Harley exhaust you can just use a rod and hammer and drive the baffle out. I did that on several stock pipes in the past. I don't know how these things are made so I can't say if you can do this with these pipes

Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 63
Just Getting Started
Offline
Just Getting Started
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 63
Not a great picture, but here is an image of my drilled front baffle:

[Linked Image]


2016 M3W
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Addict
Offline
Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
The baffles are numerous, 4 baffles in my pipes. 0ne at 24" in from the front and another at 44" in from the front and then two in the back. One about 11" in from the back and another a few inches further in. The rear baffle locations you can see with bumps/rivets on the outside of the pipes. You would have to knock all of themout and good luck with having a pipe that was straight by the time you did that, and then you still could have the cats.

Just buy a good drill bit and some extensions.


2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Addict
Offline
Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by Cuna2016
Not a great picture, but here is an image of my drilled front baffle:

[Linked Image]


That looks like the most forward rear baffle that can be seen in your photo. Good photo btw since it is a long dark hole.


2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 181
Talk Morgan Expert
Offline
Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 181
A long flat blade screw driver works well to remove the cats, they are not difficult to remove. The biggest difference to the heat issue and freeing up the engine is the removal of the "solid" baffle and free flowing air filter, the noise increase is also not too dramatic. I think the best advice is to remove that baffle first, drive and then decide if you want to remove the rear baffle, drive again and if you want remove the middle baffle. In my case I removed the front baffle then drove for a season, then decided to remove the rear baffle, great performance lovely noise no heat and cost $60. Yes, use the drill to remove the baffles do not attempt to knock them out.

Last edited by britmog; 30/10/20 03:20 PM.

Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
1994 +8 (Maurice) tis no more
2013 M3W (Olga)
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
H
L - Learner Plates On
Offline
L - Learner Plates On
H
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
Thanks for the advice. I am going to go drive the car stock and see what it is like. Then I will do the front baffle first, then the cats if I still have a major heat issue, then if that doesn't work I will buy the G56 pipes.

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Addict
Offline
Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,857
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by britmog
A long flat blade screw driver works well to remove the cats, they are not difficult to remove. The biggest difference to the heat issue and freeing up the engine is the removal of the "solid" baffle and free flowing air filter, the noise increase is also not too dramatic. I think the best advice is to remove that baffle first, drive and then decide if you want to remove the rear baffle, drive again and if you want remove the middle baffle. In my case I removed the front baffle then drove for a season, then decided to remove the rear baffle, great performance lovely noise no heat and cost $60. Yes, use the drill to remove the baffles do not attempt to knock them out.


I had two front baffles and two rear baffles.

Put a small amount of never seize on the pipe connections to make it easier to remove and replace.


2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
H
L - Learner Plates On
Offline
L - Learner Plates On
H
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by LightSpeed
Originally Posted by britmog
A long flat blade screw driver works well to remove the cats, they are not difficult to remove. The biggest difference to the heat issue and freeing up the engine is the removal of the "solid" baffle and free flowing air filter, the noise increase is also not too dramatic. I think the best advice is to remove that baffle first, drive and then decide if you want to remove the rear baffle, drive again and if you want remove the middle baffle. In my case I removed the front baffle then drove for a season, then decided to remove the rear baffle, great performance lovely noise no heat and cost $60. Yes, use the drill to remove the baffles do not attempt to knock them out.


I had two front baffles and two rear baffles.

Put a small amount of never seize on the pipe connections to make it easier to remove and replace.



Did you remove both of the front or just one?

Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 181
Talk Morgan Expert
Offline
Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 181
Originally Posted by LightSpeed
Originally Posted by britmog
A long flat blade screw driver works well to remove the cats, they are not difficult to remove. The biggest difference to the heat issue and freeing up the engine is the removal of the "solid" baffle and free flowing air filter, the noise increase is also not too dramatic. I think the best advice is to remove that baffle first, drive and then decide if you want to remove the rear baffle, drive again and if you want remove the middle baffle. In my case I removed the front baffle then drove for a season, then decided to remove the rear baffle, great performance lovely noise no heat and cost $60. Yes, use the drill to remove the baffles do not attempt to knock them out.


I had two front baffles and two rear baffles.

Put a small amount of never seize on the pipe connections to make it easier to remove and replace.



Your exhaust was probably an exception as there have been no other reports of more than 3 baffles in each pipe.

Hogzilla,

If you are going to drill out the baffles then this guide can help:

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/galleries/627053/re-prelim-bafflectomy-procedure

My recommendation is to remove the guide drill bit from the drill head, use lubricant such as cutter fluid or WD40 don't use the hammer drill but start the drill slowly without too much pressure this gets into the stainless steel and then speed up.

Last edited by britmog; 30/10/20 07:19 PM.

Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
1994 +8 (Maurice) tis no more
2013 M3W (Olga)
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
H
L - Learner Plates On
Offline
L - Learner Plates On
H
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by britmog
Originally Posted by LightSpeed
Originally Posted by britmog
A long flat blade screw driver works well to remove the cats, they are not difficult to remove. The biggest difference to the heat issue and freeing up the engine is the removal of the "solid" baffle and free flowing air filter, the noise increase is also not too dramatic. I think the best advice is to remove that baffle first, drive and then decide if you want to remove the rear baffle, drive again and if you want remove the middle baffle. In my case I removed the front baffle then drove for a season, then decided to remove the rear baffle, great performance lovely noise no heat and cost $60. Yes, use the drill to remove the baffles do not attempt to knock them out.


I had two front baffles and two rear baffles.

Put a small amount of never seize on the pipe connections to make it easier to remove and replace.



Your exhaust was probably an exception as there have been no other reports of more than 3 baffles in each pipe.

Hogzilla,

If you are going to drill out the baffles then this guide can help:

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/galleries/627053/re-prelim-bafflectomy-procedure

My recommendation is to remove the guide drill bit from the drill head, use lubricant such as cutter fluid or WD40 don't use the hammer drill but start the drill slowly without too much pressure this gets into the stainless steel and then speed up.



Thanks. I am having trouble getting an extension for my hole saw. I have one for a 1/4" drive and I need a 1/2" drive. So I will have to invent something that will work. I can tell the motor is wanting to breathe. I will help it as soon as I can!

Page 13 of 14 1 2 11 12 13 14

Moderated by  TalkMorgan 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5