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Originally Posted by +8Rich
Axel's comment is "With additional security as usual in Motorsport" on his original post, he is a very successful racer in Germany so I think he knows what he is doing. It might be in their Regs I don't know.

Who knows he may even have owned an early Aero and got overtaken by his own wheel.

Them coming loose is not a problem I encounter laugh2


Hi Richard
After the last race the center lock nuts at the rear wheels are very loose and it is for sure that i had lost the wheels without the additional "wire-locking".
So i am very happy that i had locked the nuts.
I had tighten the wheels with 400nm !

The difference in weight is between the original 7x15 Minilite with 205/60-15 and original brass/chrom locking nut (very heavy).

2021 i could win the MSCCD Lew Spencer Championship for the 3rd time after 2012 (Plus8, 73) and 2015 (Plus8, 84)

Safe riding for all and sorry for my bad english ;o]

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Originally Posted by MOG 615
Originally Posted by +8Rich

Smart wheel conversion for a German racers car - the claim is he is saving 3.2Kgs a wheel.


3.2 kilos per wheel is a very large saving indeed, Is this the combined wheel and tyre because a 16" 55 profile tyre is going to be lighter. I suspect this is compared to the wire wheels previously fitted? Compared to alloys I would find that very difficult to believe.

5 Stud alloys are much less bother to remove as well. Just a normal breaker bar with a socket is fine , no need for 20' extensions.

Agreed that the choice of tyres is much wider for 16" rims.


Hi Andy

The original 7x15 Minilite alloys with the brass/chrom center nut are very, very heavy.
It had three problems with the Minilites.

1. Tooooo heavy
2. Good 15" tyres for Track days or fast road are difficult to find
3. At fast cornering it is possible that the inner wheel rim has contact with the camber plate ! I seen this at a few Plus4 SS.

The 5-Stud would also for me the better choice, but the convertion is too expensive

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Richard do you know who makes them? Or are they the original MMC ones?


JohnV6
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+8Rich Offline OP
Tricky Dicky
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John, they are the original MMC one's - Henry Williams had a set for sale a while back though..


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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+8Rich Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Axel F.
Originally Posted by +8Rich
Axel's comment is "With additional security as usual in Motorsport" on his original post, he is a very successful racer in Germany so I think he knows what he is doing. It might be in their Regs I don't know.

Who knows he may even have owned an early Aero and got overtaken by his own wheel.

Them coming loose is not a problem I encounter laugh2


Hi Richard
After the last race the center lock nuts at the rear wheels are very loose and it is for sure that i had lost the wheels without the additional "wire-locking".
So i am very happy that i had locked the nuts.
I had tighten the wheels with 400nm !

The difference in weight is between the original 7x15 Minilite with 205/60-15 and original brass/chrom locking nut (very heavy).

2021 i could win the MSCCD Lew Spencer Championship for the 3rd time after 2012 (Plus8, 73) and 2015 (Plus8, 84)

Safe riding for all and sorry for my bad english ;o]



Hi Axel, thanks for the feedback and congratulations cheers job well done.
Your English is just great thumbs


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Con Green +8 prev





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I would like to agree with Axel on every point. We weighed the rims of my Plus4 Supert Sport without tires back in 2013 at Morgan Flaving in Unna. It was frightening how heavy these minilites were. Approx. 11.5 kg if I remember correctly. A normal spoke wheel for a Plus 4 were 7.5 kg light. In addition, a center lock wheel hub weighs less than a bolt on wheel hub, we compared the weight at Flaving, I remember 1.3 Kg. or so in difference. Ok, this is not sooo relevant because there are no rotational masses outside on the wheel. That's why I wanted to upgrade to 5 hole wheel hubs. I had even discovered a company and a rim model which I found attractive. Funnily enough, it happened to be Image Wheels and exactly the rim that MMC later used for the ARP4. Only, all in all it was a very expensive conversion and I left it. Of the existing MMC wheels with central locking only the stainless steel spoke rim fit in terms of offsets, but that is just such a weight monster and it does not fit visually to the P4SS.

The weight problem of the Minilite was twofold. One is that the rim is very heavy. But the biggest weight problem is the adapter needed to go from 5 bolts to center lock. The other point Axel mentions is grinding the inside of the rim on the camber plate. This was the case with me, very dangerous! The rim had hardly any material strength and could have broken at any time. So my P4SS went back to the factory in England under warranty There, a kind of "workaround" was made with some rubber stoppers that prevented the deflection and I got new rims for the front. That was an ok solution but not a smart one.

All in all, I found that the (visually very nice) Minilite rims were a serious problem point on the P4SS and I can well understand that Axel finally has rims without this monstrous adapter. For the same reason (and perhaps for originality), Stefan from MSCCD opted for 5 bolt rims when developing his Baby Doll, which Morgan then rebuilt in a small series.

A new Minilite P4SS wheel

[Linked Image]

My wheel after just one year of just road use but I could not notice the dangerous grinding when driving.

[Linked Image]


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Irrespective of where the extra mass is outside of the suspension, it all contributes to an increase in unsprung weight, in turn reducing suspension compliance.


Richard

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