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bad gas? (given how inconsistent the rough idle is?). Some of the NGK DCPR7EIX's are sold so you can remove terminal. If you order them online you take your chances. At the counter of an auto shop, be sure to open the box and see if the terminals can be screwed off. I was told to use these "threaded terminal stud" with spark plugs in this pic

https://www.ngk.com/spark-plug-terminal-types

The upgrade Magnecor plug wires --the Magnecor part number 2547 WIRE SET - "KV85 COMPETITION 8.5MM CABLE FOR 3 WHEEL MORGAN M3W" is a modest upgrade and they come with their "T17" threaded stud meant to fit tightly on the plug. You can order a set of these for 65 bucks in the states in Michigan here:

https://magnecorusa.com/contact/

507 McCormick Drive
Lapeer, MI 48446-2555
PH: 810-969-4092 FAX: 810-969-4198
orders@magnecor.com

I recently found out you can order the solid fixed terminal online: NGK DCPR7EIX SOLID made specifically for motorcycle engines. I just received them. You definitely want fixed solid terminals. I’m concerned about crimping a removable terminal to secure or applying fixing gel to the terminal threads which is essentially an insulator because theoretically might compromise the connection. Also the NGK iridium gap is preset to .03 inch for this design plug and should not be regapped to the recommended standard spark plug gap of .038 - .042 inch. There is a lot of misinformation out there about this.

I am replacing the stock spark plug wires ( Magnecor 7 mm ) because someone placed my lead wire boots at the ignition coil terminals parallel to the oil tank ( see pic below and yes I know there is a small leak from the oil tank cap. I’ve replaced it once per previous recommendation to do so because of disintegration of the original gasket ) and the heat from the oil tank partially melted the rubber boot in contact with the reservoir. This can damage the insulating material around the wire and compromise the integrity of the electrical connection. Most people in this forum went to the Magnecor 8.5 mm wires when they replaced their wires and that’s why I went with these. I would suspect spark plug wires are a common cause of a poorly running engine but frequently overlooked. Over time the receiving terminal that fits over the spark plug terminal inside the boot can become loose causing an erratic connection which results in sparking and carbonization inside the terminal and reducing conductivity. I’m going to replace my ignition coil as well. So new coil, wires, and spark plugs with fixed terminals. I feel my battery, rectifier, and alternator are ok because my voltage is at least a steady 14 volts under load.

If I still feel the engine runs rough sometimes I’ll pursue the fuel supply side. I am planning on replacing the fuel filter now. I think the ECU monitors fuel injector pressure so when I connect to the ECU with Protunes 2 this information will be available. Bad fuel pump, injectors?

They probably did this to prevent the leads from chafing against the underside of the hood cowl. There's not much clearance there.

The right one is touching the tank it isnt good
Imputer away mine
Injectors And lambda sensors should be the proplem

I don't think that the ECU monitors or records fuel injector pressure. The only indication of low fuel injector pressure is that the injectors max out to the limit in an attempt to maintain the correct mixture in closed loop operation. You will get a "check engine" light and a fault code listed on ProTune 2 when this happens. There is a Schrader valve test point on the RH (rear) injector to test the fuel pressure, it should be 58psi, that is the only indication. If you have not replaced the original fuel pump with a Walbro item, do so. The original pump will fail if it has not started to already, it's not a big or costly job and will save you a lot of time chasing problems.

I suggest you route your new ignition leads under the chassis tube they are presently P clipped to. They tend to rub on the top cowl edge, as yours appear to have done near the P clips. Some extra spiral insulation helps where things get close.

Thanks for the info about the fixed plug caps, new to me.

Thanks planenut.

I should mention because of the valuable advice from our members in this thread I’ve abandoned the idea of replacing the stock fan and housing behind the engine.

In April when the roads here are free of salt I report back how my engine is running with these changes.

Thanks.